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 on: Yesterday at 07:53:11 PM 
Started by Mikenoangelo - Last post by Mikenoangelo
Decision time - new clutch spring ordered from Tested Spring Co, who previously made a batch for Dale Hicks. The spring is slightly stronger than the standard Lancia version but very similar to the rather inaccurately made spring on my car. Not cheap as a one-off at £98 plus carriage.

If anyone else would like to have one please let me know by Dec 16th and I will see if a better price can be negotiated.

Having looked into all the likely sources of vibration I could imagine in clutch, gearbox and transmission there remained the possibility that the problem might originate in the engine. So today I started the engine which is still in place in the car, but shorn of clutch and gearbox. The engine is now supported just by the two leaf springs which connect the crankcase to the chassis which appear to be more or less at the midpoint of balance as it stays level with no assistance apart from than the two radiator hoses. However I supported the sump at both ends just to be safe.

I let it warm up and then cautiously let it rev up to 3800 rpm. Itís bad for an engine to rev free of load so the test was very brief but nothing untoward happened - no obvious vibration periods so thatís a relief. The flywheel runs absolutely true both in rotation and wobble. I did note that the starter pinion just occasionally tinkled against the flywheel teeth at tickover. A good result!

 on: Yesterday at 02:06:08 PM 
Started by lancialulu - Last post by frankxhv773t
I imagine it also acts as a skid to stop the front edge of the silencer snagging on anything if you are doing a rough rally stage.

 on: Yesterday at 01:33:19 PM 
Started by lancialulu - Last post by lancialulu

Is the cone shape into the silencers "bracing" or "duct"?  Not seen that before.
David - bracing....

 on: Yesterday at 12:59:50 PM 
Started by lancialulu - Last post by DavidLaver

Is the cone shape into the silencers "bracing" or "duct"?  Not seen that before.

 on: Yesterday at 11:29:10 AM 
Started by lancialulu - Last post by lancialulu
Fulvia Group 4 Competition Exhaust system by Omicron.
Complete with all fittings.
Suitable for either 1.3 or 1.6 Sport or Coupe.
In mild steel. High temperature paint coated. Spots of surface rust you would find on a new system.
Little used.
Headers 38mm dia, secondaries  41mm, central pipe 54mm (all outside diameters).
Measures 98db on 1600HF Fulvia at 4750rpm (track noise test).
£800. Collection only (or courier by arrangement at extra cost).
Essex. 01206 543828.

 on: 12 December, 2019, 07:50:58 PM 
Started by Mikenoangelo - Last post by Mikenoangelo
My clutch plate is certainly different to Karlís as the disc is steel rather than aluminium. It all looks fairly new and the riveting is really tidy, so perhaps having found that aluminium is a bit weak the previous owner substituted a steel version, or did the later cars use a steel plate (mine is 1936)?  With the cut out holes just inward of the lining it looks like a very professional job. See photo 16 above. The part behind the lining is wavy as it should be. . The more I look at this the more I suspect that it is a clutch plate from some other source rather than a specially made replacement but as I said it works perfectly.

There are other differences - the rivets attaching the linings are all on 133mm, not alternating diameters as in Karlís photo. The centre boss of mine does not have the cylindrical flange seen on yours Karl. The rivets fixing the centre boss are on 43 mm diameter.

 on: 12 December, 2019, 01:08:59 PM 
Started by Mikenoangelo - Last post by Kari
On the last photo, I note that the friction plate is of a different construction as the original, which is made from aluminium, slotted and wavy. The linings are attached alternating to the front or rear of the plate. The original assembly has a weak point, that are the rivets who attach the plate to the splined hub. They can become loose allowing the hub to move on the plate, resulting in elongating the holes. The one of Mike's Augusta seems to have those rivets spaced on a greater radius.


 on: 11 December, 2019, 09:59:25 PM 
Started by Dikappa - Last post by Mikenoangelo
Nice toy shed!! Superb work going on there - the Lambda has gone to a good home.


 on: 11 December, 2019, 09:51:31 PM 
Started by Mikenoangelo - Last post by Mikenoangelo
Here is the Augusta clutch. Top centre is the pressure plate (the disc) with the central boss which carries the clutch release bearing. Inside the bearing is the clutch release dog, mounted on a  hollow shaft with a nut on the inner end which is pulled back by the action of the clutch pedal and via the thrust bearing pushes the pressure plate back away from the lining to disengage the clutch. The pressure plate unit is fixed to the flywheel by the three spring steel arms which flex to allow the plate to move away from the flywheel.

The spigot shaft, not shown, goes through the hollow centre shaft, is splined to the clutch plate and aligned by the gearbox input shaft between flywheel and box.

Top left is the cover plate, a very thin steel pressing, attached to the flywheel by three bolts, which compresses the spring against the central boss of the pressure plate unit.

The flywheel, most unusually does not fit to a taper on the crankshaft but is held in place and driven by four bolts which screw into the end of the crank - they are strong! Iíve seen that many of the components have a small round indent, showing that they were routinely tested for hardness, and this includes the four bolts.

Today I have made a fixture to prevent the flywheel from rotating while I undo the four flywheel bolts to replace the centre spigot ball race. I work on my own, often for a couple of hours in the evening so I donít have a handy assistant.


 on: 11 December, 2019, 08:06:02 PM 
Started by Dikappa - Last post by Dikappa
Thanks for the comments, I hope not too many are offended by sliding seats in a Lambda.  However my feeling is that the original car had at least two seperate backrests, which made me think about fitting two separate seats.

I did a bit of work on the car today, fitting the lower backrest plates to the frames by welding the pivot points into the frames.  Then I could not resist to try and bend some 10mm tubing into the shape I wanted for the backrests.  I want the top of those to follow the curve of the body, and discovered making one side was easy, but then bending the other side to mirror the first one is quite a challenge!
I started out using my example ardea seatframe as a template, but off course soon had to divert, since one side needed to be lower and the opposite one higher. 
Although some fine tuning has to be done, the general shape is now more or less what I had in mind.  I only used some vise grips and a very rudementary tool for bending concrete iron, and my bare hands and knees.

On the tooling: I'll have to admit that appart from collecting/restoring Lancia's my second hobby has become to collect tooling for that.  Now this has been caused mainly by driving Beta coupťs for many years, and I always used to say: if you buy a Beta, welding equipment will follow soon....

With no money to spend to have jobs done on the car, and having learned a lot from my father (although he was a volkswagen beetle/bus man), I always did the work myself.  Liking things to be done proper, the tools came more or lessby itself through the years.  The past ten years I'm working as an independant, which has some advantages in this field I must admit...

Tooling used to make the seat frames are a sheet metal shear, I used a manual brake to bend over the edge at the top, and then used an hydraulic brake to completely flatten the bend (making a flattened U)  The metal used is 1.5mm thick.  Then the manual brake was used again to bend them into an L-profile
I then used the eckold machine to shrink the inner part of the L to make the nice curves in the frame.  I needed five in total to make two exacly the same, mainly due to mismeasurements on my own account....

The little lower sides of the backrests I were laser cut (not by me  Smiley ) after I copied the exact shape of the ardea frames.  To make the relief in these frames I used the pullmax.  This is a hughe machine originally mainly used for cutting metal into eg circles or other shapes, but due to it's reciprocating action, can also be used to make swages etc in metal.  Pictures hopefully explain!
The eckold is in fact an electrically driven shrinker-stretcher machine, and is the mother of all the small (and some of the really good) hand or foot operated hobby machines.  Only the eckold does is much quicker!  This is not always an advantage, it is also much quicker in completely destroying your workpiece!
My particular eckold is one only found in Holland, and is called a 'Fokker' Eckold.  I was told the 'Fokker' airplane manufacturing company operated fourhundred (!!!) of these machines.  The machine is dated approx 1960....
These machines are very wanted as they have a pedal which when operated immediately stop the operation, and this has proven very handy on more then one occasion.

Voila! Hopefully these ramblings were not too boring!

last picture is of the home made tooling to make the reliŽf in the 2mm plates.  The pullmax machine can handle sheet metal up to 4mm!

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