Lancia Motor Club

Hi all,

Looking for advice about changing the clutch on my Flaminia...

I've removed the propshaft and doughnuts but as mine is seized in neutral the output shaft spins freely. This means to undo the nut I need to stop it from spinning. Any advice? I don't want to damage the 'balancer'... I assume it is possible to change the clutch without dropping the entire transaxle?

Cheers!
Dave

Heres a picture of the issue....

You don't need to undo the front nut, just the ones around the housing, which by the looks of it you have already done, then the whole housing should part from the gearbox. You will probably have to move the handbrake cable out of the way and lower the nose of the gearbox a little to get it clear.

Ah - ha! Its amazing how a little knowledge can make a job easier!

Clutch now opened up - just need to 'drop the nose' of the trans to remove it completely

Many thanks!!!

Cheers
Dave

If you have anymore hints or snags or photos for doing a Flaminia clutch, I would be very interested. ;D

Thanks

Charles

Will keep you posted - will hopefully have some time this weekend to work on it a bit more....

OK - Clutch removed - looking very crusty!

Thanks for pics.

I am just trying to work out what I need to do to remove transaxle. It is on the limit of my experience, so any advice appreciated.

Do I need to clamp doughnut before disconnecting propshaft from clutch housing and if so what did you use? Am I right in saying that only the rear doughnut needs to be disconnected and the propshaft can be moved aside?

Thanks,

Charles

Hi Charles - yes you can just disconnect the rear doughnut to disconnect the prop shaft.

Obviously you will need to also disconnect the brake flexi, the handbrake cable, the gear shaft and connections to the rear suspension as well before you can remove the complete trans.

Have fun!
Cheers
Dave

Thanks Dave.

Not sure about 'fun', it more of a necessity! ;D

I think I will think about it a bit longer, before I actually do something!!!

Cheers Charles

Its really not difficult....but the transaxle is awkward, long and heavy and the C of G is towards the rear so be careful and ensure it is well supported. I believe I am right in saying that Machine Mart sell transmission jacks at an economical for use when a 4 post lift is being used.
Chris

Hi all,

Finally got around to disassembling the clutch - see below.

Does anyone know the correct thickness for the clutch friction material?

Cheers
Dave

Finally found time to remove clutch on PF. Note clutch housing is much longer.

Next job to disassemble and check.

The Coupe probably has a longer wheelbase than the GT I guess - hence the difference

I also noticed your clutch disc is different - yours has springs around the centre. No idea why its different...Anyone?

Just had my clutch disc relined - so will look to get it all balanced next week

Cheers
Dave

Clutch disc now re-lined - getting there...

There's a danger of this getting done before spring...

David

Know the feeling!  :D

How thick is the new clutch friction pad out of interest? My old one is about 9mm thick.

I am waiting for a replacement from Omicron, but wondered if necessary could I get mine relined and balanced?

Reference earlier in thread, from what I can find out, it is not unusual to have the radial springs on some Flaminia clutches.

On the spring comment - I'd be happy with that - between work and 3 kids - my Flaminia doesn't get the time she deserves!

Re-lining cost me £50exvat - so it's probably better from a ££ perspective.

On balancing - I'm getting the whole clutch assembly balanced as it spins at engine speed. It would be good to do that either way...

Thickness is around 4.5mm either side I believe - will have to check to give an accurate answer.

Cheers
Dave

On inspection the PF clutch pressure plate is slightly dished.

I am looking at having this machined. Has anyone got any experience of this?

I notice that new clutch plates are available from Classic Lancia in NL, and look to be original F&S from Germany. Anybody tried these?

Charles
There is a direct match for the Flaminia clutch from a BMW. Somewhere I have the information, but at this stage, I can tell you that I fitted one without a problem. I have also probably got a clutch which I have had refaced, as there is a guy in the next village who does this. If this is another solution, let me know. Meanwhile I will try and find the information about the BMW clutch.

Best wishes

Dave

Thanks Dave, much appreciated. Will await details of BMW clutch.
Charles.

I've had the clutch assembly balanced - and its now back on the car. For the first time in 30 years I have a fully functioning clutch!

Getting closer to my goal of making Silverstone Classic this year!

Well done Dave!

I am having some problems with my clutch and wondered if you have any answers?

I have had the pressure plate re-faced. I have tried setting the clutch levers as per Lancia document, but something doesn't quite add up to me. The pressure plate assembly has to be compressed to a particular dimension (clutch face to cover plate of 23.7mm). It is necessary to set the levers 44.7mm from the face datum (Flaminia figures, or 33.7mm for an Aurelia clutch). The original dimension before disassembly was 25mm (quite a difference from the published figures).

If I use the Flaminia figure the springs are pre-compressed by the levers, so that on reassembly there would be little further compression of the springs....which clearly isn't correct.

Anybody done this before or can offer some help????

I don't know the exact measurements (and can't check now)- but looking at the picture you posted of the 'before' state - your levers looked like they were set to disengage the clutch quite a bit (ie not compressing the springs much). Certainly very different from mine if you look at my 'before' pic. Did you have very little clutch pedal travel before?

The plate in this state should be clamping the clutch disc firmly (thus compressing the springs)

My view - and I'm no expert would be to trust the manual more on this basis...

Thanks Dave

I did some head scratching over the weekend and decided to go back to the factory settings. The levers now are higher above the clutch face and the springs are compressed more as you suggest.

The gearbox is now back in the car and the clutch pedal feels good statically. I have bled the brakes, so a trip  to the MOT station is imminent, so all will be revealed  shortly!

Trip to MOT station was fruitful, and clutch worked nicely....happy days. ;D

Another Flaminia clutch seeing the light of day, this time not for a new plate but for new clutch shaft bearings. The car started to develop what I thought was a bit of exhaust rattle, but turned out to be the noisiest bearings i have even heard. The flaminia clutch is one of the easiest i have had the pleasure to remove, shaft was pretty tight, bearings came out and rattled like a baby’s toy, new slotted in without much force. But what a pain to get the clutch back in, as the car was on low ramps, i had to build a cradle which slotted in an old 4ft jack. The problem is the clutch is nearly gone, but didn’t want the car to be off the road for more than a day, so that it will have to wait for later this year.  But at least my exhaust stopped rattling.