Lancia Motor Club

Model Technical and Interest => Fulvia => Topic started by: davidwheeler on 17 May, 2013, 08:53:53 AM



Title: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 17 May, 2013, 08:53:53 AM
This is the place to post technical information and tips such as reliable suppliers.  No chat please, keep that for other threads as it will clutter this one up and render it of much less utility.  There are stacks of stuff already on the Fulvia forum but I have no idea of how to transfer it here.  Check out the threads on Lambda and Aprilia fora for an example of how it should work (for the most part!)


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: Richard Fridd on 17 May, 2013, 10:13:54 AM
Well done, will have a look. Richard


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: Richard Fridd on 17 May, 2013, 02:47:01 PM
Spark Plugs for Fulvia engines http://www.alma.it/vanzettip/fulvia/eng/fulvia.sparkplugs.html


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: Richard Fridd on 17 May, 2013, 02:50:25 PM
818.540 cylinder heads http://www.alma.it/vanzettip/fulvia/eng/testate.540.html


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: Sebastien on 17 May, 2013, 05:23:11 PM
Lots of technical info, well sorted, there:
http://www.viva-lancia.com/fulvia/qanda/index.php


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: Richard Fridd on 17 May, 2013, 05:51:50 PM
From Lucas Injection http://www.lucasinjection.com/lancia_fulvia.htm


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 17 May, 2013, 06:21:34 PM
Brakes binding.
Series II brakes have a tendency to bind on because the master cylinder piston may not be able to retract fully..  Standard advice is to dive into the footwell and shorten the brake actuating rod.  If this does not work then you need to remove the master cylinder and shorten (by screwing in) the rod pictured.  This happened to me after the brake booster had been rebuilt.
According to Omicron the domed head of the rod should be level with the front surface of the servo.


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 25 June, 2013, 11:03:50 AM
Can also be due to the pads coming off their backing plates.


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 13 July, 2013, 02:21:15 PM
Lancia Blue 1961 to end of Lancia true is now Lechler 121L (not 121 any more, this is now yellow).  Suitable for Fulvii but not listed, I think, as an original colour for them.


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: JohnMillham on 23 March, 2014, 03:49:35 PM
I'm interested in the possibility of fitting Fulvia 1.6 pistons in my Lambda, which has a bore of 83.00 mm. Does anyone have a drawing of such a piston, or even a piston they could measure. Obviously I'm interested in the gudgeon pin size and position, weight with pin and rings and shape of the crown. Also, does anyone have a spare set?
Regards, John


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: Dilambdaman on 24 March, 2014, 12:49:44 AM
Hi John,

Not sure if S1 and S2 pistons are the same. I've got a set from our S1 Fanalone which may be of use if only for measuring. I could bring them to the Phoenix on Thursday if you're going to be there.

Robin.


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: JohnMillham on 24 March, 2014, 07:47:41 AM
Hi John,

Not sure if S1 and S2 pistons are the same. I've got a set from our S1 Fanalone which may be of use if only for measuring. I could bring them to the Phoenix on Thursday if you're going to be there.

Robin.
Thanks Robin. That would be great. I'll bring a measuring stick!
 Regards, John


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: ColinMarr on 24 March, 2014, 09:57:07 AM
John, In case you didn't know, the engine in John Turner's Tourer (ZI 59) had Fulvia 1600 pistons. The standard bore for 1600 Fulvia engines is 82 mm. Maybe John had fitted over-sized pistons - probably not easy to get now.

Colin

 


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: JohnMillham on 24 March, 2014, 10:31:44 AM
John, In case you didn't know, the engine in John Turner's Tourer (ZI 59) had Fulvia 1600 pistons. The standard bore for 1600 Fulvia engines is 82 mm. Maybe John had fitted over-sized pistons - probably not easy to get now.

Colin

 
Thanks Colin. My engine will hone out to 83 mm, which is better than having to have it rebored, so Fulvia pistons might well suit it.
Regards, John


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: rogerelias on 24 March, 2014, 06:11:47 PM
OOOH A Lambda HF  :o :D ;)


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: ColinMarr on 24 March, 2014, 06:23:22 PM
John, But you might find that 82.60 is the largest pistons and rings that are in theory available as standard.

Incidentally, there is (or was) a Lada engine with 82 mm bores. Barry Waterhouse used to have a stock of Lada 82 mm rings with up to +0.60 oversize - much cheaper than any Fiat or Lancia originals.

Colin


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 16 May, 2015, 08:33:37 AM
Lock codes
(reposted frm another thread)



08227 Brian+Hilton
View Profile Email Personal Message (Offline)
   
   
Useful Information from SA
« on: 11 May, 2015, 01:15:14 PM »
   Reply with quoteQuote
Felix Fertag in SA has just posted this on his Lancia Parts site.


Dear Fulvia Driver
I spend Sunday/mothers day to once and for all sort out all our Fulvia locks. As you know S1 and S2 have different locks. I have sorted the locks and compiled the part numbers,
and below is the result I want to share with you as a reference for any future requirements.
Lancia Fulvia Locks   
Fulvia S1   Fulvia S2
lockset   1817914   1820916
key   2180156   2277081
boot    1890607   1891464
filler   1791212   1891532
glove   1890611   1891435
lockset   1817913   
key   2172508   
door   1890710   1891426
ignition   1791216   
ignition      1821224
key      2276783


Brian
8227 Cool


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 20 August, 2015, 07:26:44 PM
S2 Sport headlight bulbs (Omicron type headlights)   http://www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk/sc/h4-headlight-bulbs-472-12v-60-55w/


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 08 April, 2016, 03:15:19 PM
Power curves for Fulvia engine


Title: Fulvia S2 dashboard fixings
Post by: GlynW on 26 May, 2016, 07:30:44 PM
A drawing showing the positions of the bolts securing the dashboard top, wooden fascia panel and lower dashboard in a Fulvia Coupe (S2).  Also a guide to removal and replacement.


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: GlynW on 11 June, 2016, 06:47:49 PM
Notes on which electrical items are connected to which fuses, for a standard S2 Fulvia. Also advice on Lancia recommended fuse rating (Avvis/Luci Interne (fuse7) = 25/30amp).

To be read in conjunction with the wiring diagram in the Fulvia Instruction Manual or with the Fulvia Electrical Flowchart (this section).


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 16 September, 2016, 08:41:48 AM
    
Fulvia paint codes
« on: 05 September, 2016, 10:24:10 PM »
   Reply with quoteQuote
https://www.facebook.com/notes/lancia-fulvia-coup%C3%A8fulvia-1200hfcoup%C3%A8-rallye-1300-1300hf1300-s-1600-hf/i-colori-e-gli-allestimenti-delle-fulvia/1719786818283835

From,
Alan Cooper.


Title: Fulvia power curves
Post by: GG on 17 September, 2016, 02:17:55 PM
Found in the Data Tech. 2nd ed. at larger resolution.


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 07 December, 2016, 10:43:57 AM
Inertia seat belts
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271410026929?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Thanks to Stanley Sweet.

The company selling them as per the listing is

Vintage Warehouse 65
Mark Houghton
51 NEW ROAD
BROMSGROVE
Worcestershire
B60 2JU
United Kingdom

Phone:07741 256356
Email:993@gmx.com



Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 15 January, 2017, 11:19:51 AM
     reposted from Norm Thomas

For anybody undertaking a dashboard restoration I've summarised the process below.  I suggest reading this summary, and taking a close look at the step-by-step pictures and descriptions in the blog above.


ASSEMBLE MATERIALS
- mahogany iron-on veneer, from veneers online.co.uk website (about £15 for a sheet big enough for 4 dashboards).
- large sheet of white paper (to protect veneer while ironing it on).
- wood glue, if needed for repair (small bottle of Evo Stick wood glue from B&Q).
- wood filler, if needed for repair (small tube of Ronseal Multipurpose Wood Filler, Light, Medium Oak, from B&Q).
- Swann Morton surgical scalpel (£3 on Amazon, and 100 blades (about £10 on Amazon) I used about 60 blades.
- plywood off-cut for practicing ironing and cutting techniques, and hole-saw (hole saw is only for cutting holes in the plywood to simulate dashboard openings).  
- sandpaper: 150 grit for sanding cut veneer edges.
- wet&dry paper (used dry): 400  and 1500  for final finishing of cut-outs, and 1500 for lightly sanding the varnished surface between coats.
- small blocks to wrap sandpaper around, for sanding straight edges.
- curved objects to wrap sandpaper around for sanding circular sections: I used a pen, a large tablespoon, and a baked beans can.
- tack rags for wiping dust off surface.
- exterior clear gloss varnish (not water based). I used Ronseal Outdoor Varnish - Gloss - about £7 for small tin from B&Q.
- good quality 1” paint brush.
PREPARATION
- be careful handling the wooden dash panel - edges can be dry and fragile,  and the thin rear surface can chip away easily (pieces can be glued back on if they come away).
- fill any holes or imperfections - using wood filler, then sand.  Build up filler in small layers.
- repair any de-lamination with wood glue and clamp or place under heavy objects (large books are good) until set.
- cut piece of veneer using the dashboard as a pattern - about an inch over size.
PRACTICE
- use some of the leftover veneer pieces to practice on.
- I bought a plywood off-cut for 50p from a local hardware store, and cut holes in it with a hole saw (the type used for cutting holes in doors for handles and locks) and sanded these smooth.
- practice ironing veneer to the plywood off-cut using a thin sheet of paper between iron and veneer - have iron set at “cotton” .
- practice cutting out the hole-saw apertures (see technique hints below).
ATTACH VENEER
- iron the veneer to the dashboard using a thin sheet of paper between iron and veneer - have iron set at “cotton”.
- move the iron slowly over surface but be careful not to burn veneer.
- put the dashboard under heavy weights (large books are good) for 48 hours.
- examine  edges to confirm that veneer has adhered properly.
- any edges where veneer is not attached can be fixed by ironing the area again - then repeating the weighting process for 48 hours
TRIM PERIMETER
- place dashboard veneer-side down on a hard surface (piece of wood, or cutting mat) and holding scalpel vertically cut around perimeter, using edge of dashboard as a guide for the blade.
CUT OUT OPENINGS
- with dashboard veneer-side down, hold scalpel vertically and cut around openings, leaving just a few millimetres of overlapping veneer.
- turn the dashboard over and start cutting the overlapping veneer from within the first opening.
- start with one of the large circular openings as cutting gets more difficult  with the smaller radius curves.
- carve the excess off in narrow slivers.  Attempting to cut too wide a sliver can result in splintering.
- cut on the down stroke only.  Trying to cut on the up stroke can also cause splintering.
- change blade frequently - I got through about 60 blades in total.
- the practicing sessions (see above) will have shown the best way to hold the panel, and in which direction (clockwise or anti-clockwise) to cut.
- once the opening is near to the required finished size the scalpel can be held against the chamfered plywood edge to remove final small pieces of veneer.
- the cut-outs do not have to be completely regular, as the sanding stage will remove irregularities and allow a smooth edge to be achieved.
- fine sandpaper should then be used to achieve a smooth finish. I started with 150 grit and finished with 400.
- wrapping the sandpaper around an object that closely matches the radius being sanded is a good approach. I used a pen, a large tablespoon, and a baked beans can, depending on radius.
- use sandpaper wrapped around a flat block for sanding straight edges.
- may need to tidy up areas where the glue backing on the veneer is too visible, by carefully scraping it away with a finger nail.  As shown in the step-by-step photo sequence earlier in this blog.
EXAMINE FOR DETACHED VENEER
- after all cut-outs have been made, the dash should be examined to see if the cutting process has caused the veneer to lift away from the plywood backing in any places.
- I found three areas where this happened, and I repeated the hot ironing process just on these areas and weighted the dash down again for 48 hours
VARNISH
- lightly sand the veneer surface and wipe with a tack-rag.
- apply first coat of varnish very, very thinly, to avoid that it wets the veneer too much and causes buckling.
- adjust your angle of view to see light reflected on the varnish in order to see any areas of puddling of the varnish, and brush these out with a dryish brush.
- leave for a day, then lightly sand with 1500 grit paper and apply second coat.
- repeat this process another 3 times giving 5 coats in total, or until you are happy with the finish.

Good luck!

Safety information from various people added bu Norm's request.   Read, mark and inwardly digest! David


Word of caution........in my career using endless scalpel blades, the biggest risk of injury was the fitting and removal of scalpel blades, hence a policy of single use (infection purposes) and the use of a special implement to hold blade whilst fitting or removing same!

They can inflict horrific injuries!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0082CW90M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/254-6179918-5827767?ie=UTF8&qid=1484687715&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=scalpel+blade+remover&dpPl=1&dpID=310c-SlU8vL&ref=plSrch

This for removal and disposal, single use


https://www.pearsondental.com/catalog/product.asp?majcatid=41&catid=2391&subcatid=1129&pid=58670&dpt=0

http://www.sklarcorp.com/scalpels/blade-removers/blade-removal-forceps.html

The first allows the simultaneous raising of the rear locking element at the same time as sliding the blade off.


Safety first, second and third guys!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0082CW90M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/254-6179918-5827767?ie=UTF8&qid=1484687715&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=scalpel+blade+remover&dpPl=1&dpID=310c-SlU8vL&ref=plSrch

This for removal and disposal, single use

I've been using scalpels for years - back in pre-computer days they were essential for artwork in studios. Couple of things - you were quite right not to skimp on them as they are pretty cheap. The other thing if you are doing difficult cuts is to watch your eyes. Quite unbelievably, but true as I witnessed it myself, at college a friend was trying to cut a curve through thick material. The blade bent and snapped in half and pinged off the lens of his glasses. He then put another one in and it snapped and pinged off the other lens! He didn't wear glasses all the time so it was a lucky escape.   Safety glasses all the time!


P

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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
2015 Alfa Romeo Mito
2011 Peugeot 207 in Spain
2016 Ford Focus Estate
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 30 January, 2017, 05:01:24 PM
Body dimensions


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 16 July, 2017, 06:14:51 PM
SII Brake master cylinder internals.


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 19 July, 2017, 01:22:24 PM
transferred from another thread


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 30 August, 2017, 06:01:31 PM
Shock absorber data from Sliding Pillar


Title: Re: Technical information only
Post by: davidwheeler on 10 December, 2018, 10:34:51 AM
Parts catlogue CDs 
http://www.viva-lancia.com/specials/cd/fulvia-cd.php