Lancia Motor Club

Model Technical and Interest => Ypsilon, Musa and Y10 => Topic started by: Kevinlincs on 01 March, 2020, 09:47:44 PM



Title: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 March, 2020, 09:47:44 PM
Picked up my new Y10 today, having regretted selling the GTie last year I consider myself lucky to have found this LX.
It has only covered around 37,000 miles which appears genuine, there are supplying dealer service stamps right up to 1998 when it was still only around 18k, MoT history seems to back up the low miles it's covered in the last 32 years! Just over 1,000 miles a year....

Love the colour of it, really looks bright and fresh.

The alloy wheels will no doubt give varying opinions, I quite like them but I also have the original wheel trims should I feel the need...


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 March, 2020, 09:56:01 PM
Interior is in superb condition, seats and carpets are perfect, roof lining looks factory fresh.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 March, 2020, 09:57:32 PM
Front in just as nice condition...


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 March, 2020, 09:59:19 PM
Under bonnet just as nice


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 March, 2020, 10:02:32 PM
Even has the original dealer number plates and rear window sticker,


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 March, 2020, 10:10:48 PM
That's the good news!

The list of jobs to do that I've uncovered this afternoon, mostly to be fair they were known when I bought the car.

Both outer sills need replacing although the rest looks decent,
There are a few rust patches to sort, nothing major that will keep the car from continuing it's life.
A rear wheel bearing,
Rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders,
Rear hatch struts,
Full exhaust system,
Cambelt change,
Full brake overhaul as the pedal goes to the floor, no sign of fluid loss.
Central locking playing up,
Service the engine..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 March, 2020, 10:15:32 PM
The drivers window apparently falls out of the mechanism when lowered, it appears that the plastic clip that holds the regulator to the glass is missing the retaining piece, feels as though there is nothing on the other side of the white fitting.

Anyone know what the other side looks like, or have a spare?

If I know what it should look like then maybe it's sat in the door bottom, or at least I can search for a new clip..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 March, 2020, 10:17:06 PM
Also, how does the door handle come off to allow the upper trim to come off?


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 02 March, 2020, 01:27:48 PM
Door handle upper trim is an oblong with lugs at the sides that clip under the surrounding alcantara. Push them in at the side and lift them up. It helps to raise the door release lever to allow space. Attached is a picture of a new window rack showing the attachment for the glass. I suspect yours has sheared off but I have spares I c an provide. I'm going to north Lincolnshire on Friday in the middle of the day and returning on Sunday afternoon. Might it be convenient for me to swing by your place with a red cross parcel of spares?


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 02 March, 2020, 07:31:18 PM
That's perfect thanks Frank, thought it must be clipped in something like that but didn't want to force and potentially break it.

That clip for the window I imagine must be properly broken, I'll go out with a torch in a bit and have a look. If you've a spare you're willing to part with that would be great.
Also I will be home Sunday if you wanted to have a look at the car, or I can meet you somewhere, that would be greatly appreciated. I've ordered a few bits today so will probably tackle the cambelt and waterpump as I don't know when it was last changed.

The central locking is making some strange noises too, drivers door just makes some weird noises and even makes a noise like a small electric motor running at times! Passenger door appears to be functioning OK but fails to trigger the drivers side door, so suspect either a failing sender unit in the drivers door or a bad/broken wire in the door to A pillar junctions.

As we suggested before Frank I'd be interested in buying some spares off you, always handy to have semi consumable parts to hand at times, switches, motor's etc, all handy to have. I remember you saying you are almost overflowing with bits!



Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 02 March, 2020, 08:35:27 PM
Checked the window clip Frank and I can feel that one of the prongs that goes through the hole in the glass is missing, so the glass is able to fall out, so I do indeed need a new clip.
Re the central locking I think there's a wiring issue as it started making a real funny whirring noise, as I say like a small electric motor, when I thumped the door near to where the wiring channel is the noise stopped.

About to buy some rear hatch struts, unless you have some good ones? Not overly expensive for new, bought a pair for the GTie last year so don't mind buying new.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 02 March, 2020, 11:31:34 PM
The central locking works off solenoids that clunk across so shouldn't have a motor running to my mind. The only motor ought to be the window lift. Might its' being detached from the glass cause the motor to carry on running? You are better off with new tailgate struts as anything second hand tends to be weak. I am not "almost overflowing with spares" They have already overflowed and are filling up laid up cars etc. Would you like to PM me with contact details so we could discuss my calling in on Sunday afternoon?


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 08 March, 2020, 10:01:57 PM
A big thank you to Frank for calling round this afternoon to not only drop off some very useful parts but to educate me on many interesting points on the Y10, nice to have a 2nd opinion on the cars' condition too.

I've started to get quite a few parts together now so should be able to get started on the car soon.

I think the best thing for the car is to get it up and running nicely, sort the brakes, weld the sills then get the MoT done and run it for a year to see what else needs ironing out. Then set about tackling the few rust spots on it at a later date.

Like so many of the projects I've got stacking up, I can't wait to get started...


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: m tulloch on 09 March, 2020, 10:33:21 PM
Hi,

I'm sure I've got a pair of electric window lifters still kicking around in my workshop if you want me to look at the weekend.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 March, 2020, 10:38:48 PM
Hi,

I'm sure I've got a pair of electric window lifters still kicking around in my workshop if you want me to look at the weekend.

Thanks for the offer but Frank came up trumps with a good used one  8)


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: m tulloch on 09 March, 2020, 10:41:27 PM
No problem.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 21 March, 2020, 08:14:48 PM
About time I set about getting the Y10 ready.
Loads of jobs to do but got to start somewhere.
As the cambelt hasn't been changed for at least 10 years that's the first job.
Nice to have decent access and a simple task for a change. As the water pump runs off the cambelt also it got changed too even though it appears OK, not worth the risk.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 21 March, 2020, 08:19:13 PM
An oil and filter change for good measure so at least I've no fears now for its running.

The alternator though is overcharging so I'll take it off tomorrow and get it apart for a new voltage regulator to go in.

A couple of places around the front windscreen had let a little bit of water in, at the top where the seal is wrong but also at the bottom where the scuttle is there's now a hole once I'd poked at it. Some silicon sealant will keep the water out for now until it gets chance for a permanent repair.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 21 March, 2020, 08:36:08 PM
Inside the air filter housing there's a device for altering the air metering flap from hot to cold air being drawn in..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 21 March, 2020, 08:39:18 PM
On mine though its not connected, I assume the end has broken off the control rod.
I can drill out the rivets and make some kind of link between the missing section.
Question is does it normally start off drawing warm air or cold, so which way to make it work, pull or push..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 22 March, 2020, 06:15:41 PM
Had a look at my malfunctioning central locking today. It was extremely temperamental and even resorted to making some wierd whirring noise at times!
The strange buzz was actually coming from the relay. Taking it apart I half expected it to be full of water and corrosion but all looked OK.
The inner door handle had one issue, the lock had been pulled up too high and a tang was preventing it going smoothly back down. With that back in correct position things improved but still not fully working. The passenger door refused to play ball at all.
When Frank came over the other week he brought me another drivers lock motor. Fitting that was an instant success.
Car locks and unlocks perfectly, no buzzing or whirring, now even the passenger door works properly!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 22 March, 2020, 06:23:59 PM
Next job was the drivers electric window regulator which had lost the tangs on the plastic peg that holds it to the window glass.
Frank had again provided me with a good used item.
I'd noticed though when he came that the passenger one he had with him had broken similarly and since had a hole drilled in the remaining peg.
As my regulator still worked perfectly well I decided to make similar repairs. A hole drilled through, a large rubber and copper washer with a nice tight fitting split pin and all back in order.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 22 March, 2020, 06:31:25 PM
Putting everything back together revealed a new problem, the door locking mechanism on the door handle was falling out of the door lock lever slot.
Taking the handle out revealed that the circular portion that retains the guide pin had broken almost half way round


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 22 March, 2020, 06:33:13 PM
This allows the rotating section to fall off..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 22 March, 2020, 06:36:45 PM
My temporary solution is to use half of an electrical connector to lock the pin in place.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 22 March, 2020, 06:41:30 PM
Fiddly to get on inside the door but all OK in the end.
Decided it was too risky a repair to have it fail so would have a look for a good used one, but I am amazed to have found a brand new one for a little over £20 Inc delivery!
This little car is winning me over more and more.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 22 March, 2020, 06:48:02 PM
Last job for today was to take the alternator off ready for a new voltage regulator.
Car had a new battery fitted when I got it probably due to the old one boiling up from being over charged, they don't like 16V going through them!
The issue it has caused though has most likely resulted in the paint being peeled off and the rust starting around the mount.
Hasn't put me off any, just another little step on the resuscitation of a little gem


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 23 March, 2020, 11:25:51 PM
One of the joys of a Y10 is that most parts are pocket money prices (Flaminia parts prices have been an education to me!)

Here's a picture of the cold air flap from the air filter housing.

If you make a list of bits you need I can make up  a red cross parcel. I have a shelf of air boxes and a box of door handles so your current needs can be accommodated.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 25 March, 2020, 08:26:42 PM
As ever, appreciate the offer Frank.
I'll be sure to be making a shopping list as I go, with the current situation I think I'll be doing more work at home on the Y10 so hope to progress a little bit quicker than anticipated.

Took the airbox flap control out tonight to see if I could come up with a repair.
The unit works just like a wax thermostat, a heat gun warmed it up nicely to check the movement was OK so just needed to figure out a way to make the pin to locate into the linkage.
A thick split pin seemed a good solution, relatively easy to shape but still stiff enough to do the job.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 25 March, 2020, 08:35:05 PM
Being cranked over to follow the shape will provide some stability, 3 cable ties held it firmly to the shaft.
Works a treat. Cold and it pulls the flap to cover the cold air intake pipe.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 25 March, 2020, 08:39:26 PM
When the element is warmed up, which would be from drawing air straight up from the exhaust manifold, it moves the flap to blank off the warm air and allow the cool. I'd guess in functioning it hovers somewhere between the two positions.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 25 March, 2020, 08:43:35 PM
Once I knew it all worked OK I mixed up some 2 pack epoxy and covered the repairs, no reason why it won't last for years.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 26 March, 2020, 12:42:43 PM
I checked mine and found it is broken too. I've never noticed the lack of it so presume it isn't actually essential.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 26 March, 2020, 07:54:39 PM
I'd say the only time it'd be needed would be in the depths of winter to prevent carb icing, the vapour can freeze if the air is too cold on a really cold day, but with the airbox over the top of the engine anyway it does get a little heat still.

Fitted it back into the housing tonight, fixed with some little M5 flat cap screws and nyloc nuts.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 26 March, 2020, 07:56:22 PM
Once the engine was up to temp the flap started to move, as I guessed it seems to sit somewhere between positions to keep the air temperature warmish that goes into the carb.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 27 March, 2020, 01:20:20 PM
I'd better sort mine out then!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 29 March, 2020, 01:02:55 PM
New exhaust system fitted to the car yesterday, another little box ticked.
I brought a few welding tools and materials home last week so if we go on full lockdown then I can at least do some good at home.
With travel up to my unit not really advisable at the moment I'll use any spare time to get the car MoT test ready, once we're through this virus and can actually use it!
Too windy and bitterly cold today for my liking though  >:(


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 29 March, 2020, 01:46:09 PM
Trying to get things ready for when I need them, which means sourcing some paint.
Looked in the usual places, under the bonnet and inside the boot but I can't find the paint code sticker, and ideas where it is located?
Searched through the paperwork and it says "dry metallic blue" in handwriting..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 29 March, 2020, 04:58:04 PM
Can't believe I didn't spot it on the inner wing strut turret!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 30 March, 2020, 08:07:45 PM
New drivers door handle arrived today from the Oldtimer shop in Slovenia, key barrel swapped over and fitted on the car tonight. At least I'll be able to use the handle without the linkage falling off!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 31 March, 2020, 11:19:47 AM
It's interesting that your paint code was on the front strut turret. Mine have all been on the inside of the tailgate.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 April, 2020, 07:19:33 PM
Got some time today so with the weather being favourable I set about the under battery repairs.
With the false bulkhead and battery tray out of the way it became very clear where the rainwater was getting in!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 April, 2020, 07:22:32 PM
Thankfully most of it looked worse than it was, just a hole in the corner which needed chopping out. The other surface rust I attacked with a knotted wheel on an angle grinder, my theory being that if it survives that it's solid enough. Those knotted wheels are nasty things so great care needs to be taken, but they are perfect for finding any weak areas.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 April, 2020, 07:25:30 PM
Corner welded up and battery clampdown bolt reinstated then the surface rusted area was treated with Jenolite rust converter that professes to turn rusty metal to clean metal, which to be fair to it it seems to be up to the task. Never used it before so time will tell.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 April, 2020, 07:28:30 PM
Etch primed it inside and out. Tomorrow I'll seam seal the welds then maybe lay some stoneguard protection on it at the weekend, or just paint it as is. It'll look better just painted for a smoother finish but I'm all for trying to offer the best future proofing I can.
Taped up the vents for now incase of overnight rain.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: DavidLaver on 01 April, 2020, 08:32:50 PM

Grinder out - I'm happy now.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 02 April, 2020, 11:46:03 AM
I live by Jenolite, either that or Kurust, but always the version you can paint over. It seems daft to me to convert rust with something you then wash off making the metal wet again. I generally follow it up with a rustproof primer as a belt and braces approach. The corner where you have welded is visible when the bonnet is open so it would look nice painted back in body colour. I have never experienced rust there so once everything is properly fixed it shouldn't be a problem again.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 02 April, 2020, 08:21:21 PM
First time using Jenolite, used Kurust before with decent results.
Agree that making bare metal then making wet seems madness!
Incidentally Jenolite is now available from Wilco stores at a much better price than direct from their website..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 April, 2020, 07:54:48 PM
In the end I just put a layer of seam sealer on, the raised parts where the plastic battery tray will sit, that will provide a better quality of protection.
Gave it a couple of days to dry off and the solvent to evaporate so sprayed it this afternoon. Just with an aerosol as car is at home, basecoat and lacquer so a few more layers of each should provide a good covering.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 April, 2020, 07:56:41 PM
3 shades so went for standard, hopefully it'll dull down a little and the old paint polish up a bit


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: simonandjuliet on 05 April, 2020, 05:59:21 AM
So long as it doesn't rust again ...


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 05 April, 2020, 11:54:21 AM
It's a mystery why it rusted there in the first place as I have never seen such a problem before and all the Y10s I have been familiar with have lived permanently outdoors.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 05 April, 2020, 03:53:34 PM
Only thing I can think of is that it may have been parked outside for a number of years but on an uphill slope so that water puddled and couldn't run away. Couple that with some dirt or leaves and it would be enough to cause rot.

The other issue which I've yet to solve could well also be contributory. The alternator is overcharging the battery, stubbornly it is almost 16volts despite my efforts to lower it to the required 13.8v to 14.5v. I fitted a new voltage regulator which made no odds, tried a second different brand to make sure of a functioning item as the first was a cheap ebay item, both produced the same results. Tried it with a different battery just to be sure, same result.
I will change the whole alternator now, hopefully that will produce an acceptable charge level. Maybe you have a good spare to sell Frank?
It's not unreasonable to assume that it could have been like that for some time, no battery charge warning light on so would remain unnoticed apart from getting through a few batteries and I only noticed as I checked the charge rate amongst a few checks I did, so it's entirely plausible that with the battery getting overcharged it would spill the corrosive acid out through the vent hole and down onto the battery tray, attacking the paintwork under the tray.
All the more plausible if Frank says it's not a known weak spot, you'd expect other cars to have suffered with rot there if it was a bit of a water trap given Franks' knowledge on the Y10 I'm confident that the charging issue is more likely.



Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: DavidLaver on 05 April, 2020, 05:24:05 PM

Interesting how a regulator might cause rot.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 05 April, 2020, 05:32:32 PM
I'm sure I can find you an alternator when the current panic is over. Battery acid spillage is a possibility. They have a really good plastic battery tray with a drain pipe that goes down the front bulkhead and past the steering rack but then a chunk of the bund wall is usually cut out to accommodate the clamp which defeats the point.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 05 April, 2020, 06:00:19 PM
The battery spillage of sulphuric acid seems more likely now I've heard the corner isn't a known weak point. If you've ever had a battery on charge the vapors easily make the top damp, with the constant overcharging it's not unreasonable to imagine the odd drip or even the extra fumes coming through.

I may also be in the market for a drivers door too Frank unless I can get mine straightened out better. It has been twisted at some point, the fit isn't great. I'll see if I can get it better aligned but replacement may be in order.
The fit to the rear quarter is awful but great to the wing, like the door has twisted evidenced by paint stress marks on the door inner.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: fay66 on 05 April, 2020, 07:54:08 PM
The battery spillage of sulphuric acid seems more likely now I've heard the corner isn't a known weak point. If you've ever had a battery on charge the vapors easily make the top damp, with the constant overcharging it's not unreasonable to imagine the odd drip or even the extra fumes coming through.

I may also be in the market for a drivers door too Frank unless I can get mine straightened out better. It has been twisted at some point, the fit isn't great. I'll see if I can get it better aligned but replacement may be in order.
The fit to the rear quarter is awful but great to the wing, like the door has twisted evidenced by paint stress marks on the door inner.
My first 1986 Y10 Fire, had rust there but not a serious as this.
But my 1989 Y10 Gtie was fine.
Brian
8227  8)


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 11 April, 2020, 05:44:16 PM
Colour match not so important now you can hardly see the repair!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 12 April, 2020, 07:26:11 PM
Stripped the seats out of the car today so I can peel back the carpets ready to start welding the sills, with the interior being do nice it's far too risky to have a spark or flame licking at it.
Despite having had a leaky scuttle the front floor looks remarkably good.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 12 April, 2020, 07:28:17 PM
As does the rear section.
Also with the carpet and soundproofing out of the way it's far easier to keep things in check, and if I need to weld the floor inner side of the sill edge then that's easy now.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 12 April, 2020, 07:35:43 PM
Not the best conditions to be welding in laid half on gravel but at least I have a carport to keep the elements off, just if it gets breezy it's like a wind tunnel!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: DavidLaver on 12 April, 2020, 09:00:59 PM

Am confident if there's a breeze you'll work out how to rig a tarb or fence panel or something to kill it...


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 12 April, 2020, 09:05:01 PM
Yes, it should be fine David.
I've had to do a few cars like this before I rented a unit, my first Alfasud got restored on the same driveway and that was a rough car!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 13 April, 2020, 11:01:34 AM
I meant to say that I do have a driver's door spare but I would be tempted to try and bend the existing one back into shape. I have just patched up my door bottoms with stuff I had lying about but once rust is in the fold at the bottom I don't think there's any long term cure apart from cutting off and replacing the bottom of the door skin.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 13 April, 2020, 05:33:31 PM
Yes, agree that making this one fit better is a good plan, I tried a little by hand which improved it no end. I've a plan to get it back in shape.

Despite saying I wouldn't touch the car today the temptation was too much to resist.

Little hope in mind that the bottom lip would be useable, which proved correct.
Not all bad though, the metal an inch above still has very good protection so has lasted well.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 13 April, 2020, 05:35:06 PM
Front section behind the wing bottom is in decent shape, simple enough to repair. Wing bottom is trash so I'll have to make a new section for that.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 13 April, 2020, 05:37:31 PM
Rear section under the rear quarter and back towards the arch needs some work, rear suspension mount area likewise but not as bas as it could have been.

Weather looks vastly improved for tomorrow so I'll make a start on it.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 14 April, 2020, 09:09:26 AM
You might as well have that wing off whilst you're about it. (You were probably planning to anyway.)


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 14 April, 2020, 07:33:36 PM
You're right there Frank, in fact the more I looked at it the more things were adding up.
The rot had, predictably, spread further than first appeared. The layer between the floor and central sill where they angle up together is rotten for a couple inches. Outwardly they looked OK but peeling them apart there's rust between the sandwiched layers.
With work needed in the rear arch near the vulnerable fuel filler coupled with me getting less enthusiastic about laying on a cold gravel drive I've decided to not do the job half cocked and wait until I can get it up to my unit.
No point rushing about doing half a job and leaving rusting bits of floor.
So I'll be taking it apart when the time comes, get the shell up on my spit so I can tip it upside down. Everything will be done, rear arch has a hole so that will no doubt lead to other stuff. Front 'screen needs to come out as the seal is wrong and there's welding repairs needed behind it. If I repair it at the unit too I can give it all a full respray so with a bit of effort it will become a Y10 that should last for years to come.

A shame it won't be running this year but in the long run I'll only have to do it once rather than half a job now and again  in the future.  Most likely I'll start it at years end so welding through the Winter


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 15 April, 2020, 09:16:15 PM
Doing some digging for parts today I seem to have a spare new windscreen rubber that may be of use to you in the fullness of time.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 15 April, 2020, 09:17:24 PM
I was digging about for some parts today and find I have a spare new screen rubber that may be of use to you when the time comes.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 16 April, 2020, 06:30:06 PM
Appreciate the offer Frank. I have that new one in the bag that we thought might be a front seal but if it turns out not to be so I'll be in touch  8)

On another note the alternator issue is fixed, turns out the voltage meter I've had for years isn't to be trusted, car is charging spot on perfect now I've used a tried and trusted meter, kind of makes me wonder if it was faulty in the first place, which in turn throws out ,my theory of the charging issue causing the rust issue under the battery...


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 May, 2020, 04:00:04 PM
Haven't totally abandoned work on the Y10, not fully. Had issues with my Alfa 145 so now that the head gasket and cambelt change is done maybe I'll get something more done with the Lancia..

Did refit the rear badges though. The silver lettering had faded a little, badges were already off and thankfully still in the car, on Frank's advice I had a stab at cleaning off the backing material then spraying the back of the badges silver which hasn't come out too bad from a distance..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 May, 2020, 04:03:42 PM
On doing another little job a week or so ago though on the speedo binnacle I managed to break the light switch Stalk despite already been warned of how fragile they were  :'(

For now, and maybe forever, I've repaired it.
The break was I suspect where they all must break, where the metal insert finishes and it becomes solely plastic..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 May, 2020, 04:05:28 PM
My repair solution was to strip back 10mm or so of the stalk revealing the square section of metal then drill a hole down the broken stem.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 May, 2020, 04:08:35 PM
Once reattached with some 2 pack epoxy resin it's actually nice and strong a repair, the stalk was able to rotate the switch OK without glue so with the metal being square in section it allowed plenty of surface area in the glued join to make strong again to be used without fear of breaking.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 May, 2020, 04:16:24 PM
With the excess glue trimmed off and a quick spray of matt black it looks OK enough and works perfectly.

Bigger fish to fry yet!

I searched online for new outer sills to use rather than patch what I have, stumbled across a UK company offering a pair for around £50 Inc delivery so placed an order with the feeling that I'd get an email saying no longer available, here's a refund.
To my surprise though I did get an email saying that they weren't a stock item, but would be delivered with 1 to 2 weeks if that was OK?
Still fully expected another email saying that they are unfortunately not available after all.
Imagine my surprise to get a notification a few days ago saying my order has been processed and the parts are on their way...
As yet not arrived but more hopeful now... Just hope it's not a pair of drivers side ones!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 09 May, 2020, 05:24:38 PM
It's nice to see it creeping forwards. Fingers crossed for the sills. If they turn out to be all right I hope you will share the name of the supplier.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 May, 2020, 09:01:00 PM
I will indeed Frank, assuming they turn up..
Had asked a place in Hungary who had an OS one but couldn't get a NS, that was at about twice the price just for the drivers side though!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: lancianut666 on 11 May, 2020, 08:08:09 PM
We would like your thoughts on the new panels also... perhaps they do drivers side front wings?
Clarkey


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 11 May, 2020, 08:45:46 PM
New outer sills arrived today, appear to be great quality. Includes the portion that sits behind the front wing, goes to the door seal lip too so will make a better repair than a skin sill, even get the bottom few inches of the rear quarter panel so no danger of damaging the swage line.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 11 May, 2020, 08:46:59 PM
Thankfully a matching pair came!
They do look well made, strong and appear pretty accurate.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 11 May, 2020, 08:48:01 PM
New old stock by looks of faded labelso not sure how many more out there.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 11 May, 2020, 08:51:22 PM
Came from this place...

https://www.carz2.co.uk/lancia-y10-85--16353-c.asp

Cost was about £52 Inc postage to UK from memory..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 26 June, 2020, 06:33:02 PM
I've been lucky having the last couple of months off work on the furlough scheme so have managed to get things in order at my rented unit, the alfa sud restoration is pretty much complete so it's onto the Y10 next.
My friend is coming over on Sunday to trailer it up to my unit for me, today I set about taking the interior bits out such as dash, door cards, roof lining etc.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 26 June, 2020, 06:34:55 PM
The rear inner arches have been waxoyled in the past which has helped preserve it, still has daylight in the passenger side though where there was a scab on the outside.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 26 June, 2020, 06:38:03 PM
I've one more week off work so plan on making a start on it, was going to be a quick weld and use but with the lack of anywhere much to go in it this summer I'll strip it right back and go through it all, may even drop the engine and gearbox out then fix it to the tilter rollover jig, more effort to get it on it but a huge improvement on comfort of repair, not to mention making access so much better.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: DavidLaver on 26 June, 2020, 10:04:25 PM

Will this be the first Y10 ever to go on a rotisserie rather than just patched?


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 26 June, 2020, 10:22:37 PM

Will this be the first Y10 ever to go on a rotisserie rather than just patched?

I was unsure whether to go to the trouble or not but I want this car to have a fighting chance for the future, being able to easily tip it on its side or upside down will make it easier to go the whole 9 yards, not having a deadline to finish it also helps!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: lancianut666 on 28 June, 2020, 03:23:08 PM
I managed to get a pair of those sills so very interested to see how you go about changing the old ones out
Clarkey


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 29 June, 2020, 09:41:58 PM
Should find out how they fit soon Clarkey  😎

Had to brace the body shell quite a bit to get rid of the flex before I can chop out and weld the sills, now it can be jacked on one corner with wheels dangling but still the doors open and close nicely.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 29 June, 2020, 09:44:23 PM
Started to strip out the engine bay so it can be attached to the tilter, the frame I have means all weight needs to be out of it.
I'll post more as the week goes on, as my last week off work so need to press on..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: lancialulu on 30 June, 2020, 04:27:36 PM
Had to brace the body shell quite a bit to get rid of the flex before I can chop out and weld the sills, now it can be jacked on one corner with wheels dangling but still the doors open and close nicely.
I suppose this is an example of finite element modelling in practice. Take the sill structure away and the car is a jelly!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 30 June, 2020, 09:50:29 PM
Some cars you can get away without bracing but not this one. No big problem and good insurance to have anyway as far as keeping alignment.

Power train all out this morning, enough weight out for now. May well strip all the wiring back and paint the engine bay when the time comes. Didn't plan on doing but not a lot more effort to clear it out now so probably makes sense.



Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 30 June, 2020, 09:52:42 PM
Got the rear end cleared out this afternoon, axle, fuel tank, hatch and lights etc. Also took all the weight out of the doors so about ready to be fitted to the tilter.
Got a huge pile of parts to store now though!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 01 July, 2020, 02:24:36 PM
How were the spring cups on the back axle? Mine having rotted out and been rebuilt I'm interested to know if they are a general problem or mine was unusual.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 July, 2020, 08:09:56 PM
How were the spring cups on the back axle? Mine having rotted out and been rebuilt I'm interested to know if they are a general problem or mine was unusual.

At first glance crusty but solid Frank, I haven't got around to checking it out yet but it is very much near the top of the "to do" list as there's a growing pile of parts that I want to get blasted and powder coated, or blasted at least then I can paint them. Rear axle and suspension arms are on the list.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 02 July, 2020, 10:34:42 AM
Thanks Kevin. If they didn't have daylight showing through them when the springs were removed they are much better than mine were. My Y10 probably led a less cosseted life.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 02 July, 2020, 09:07:39 PM
Axle appears OK Frank, brought it home so I can strip the brakes etc off then get it blasted to be sure.


Managed to get the bracing done for the tilter frames, front end was lacking a bit in decent mounting points so using several half decent points with angles and box section it became sturdy enough. I've had heavier bigger shells on the frame which were just fine so should be OK...


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 02 July, 2020, 09:10:21 PM
The car is slightly top heavy, probably due to the front windscreen still being in but also because I mistakenly greased the pivots the car tends to want to be either upside down or right way up, normally it can be locked off at any desired angle.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 02 July, 2020, 09:13:44 PM
Such as...


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 02 July, 2020, 09:16:39 PM
The beauty and simplicity of it is being able to have the car held on it's side so work on the floor pan doesn't involve grease and grit in your face whilst trying to hold your head up!
I know it's a pain to strip the car out but I'm seeing it as an oportunity to strip all the sealant back that is starting to dry and split so new can be done, should help the car last another 30 years.... assuming we have any petrol by then!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 03 July, 2020, 08:34:57 AM
Sorting out the seam sealer is a really good move.

Might it be worth adding a diagonal bar between the "A" frame and the substitute bumper with a whole row of holes so you can lock the rotation at any angle?


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 03 July, 2020, 11:44:06 AM
Yes, was thinking something similar myself.
Wouldn't need to be hugely strong so something just to lock in place so it's not tempted to rotate.
I'll rig something up on Saturday when next up there.
Back to work next week so progress will slow to a crawl but happy to have got it started at least.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: lancianut666 on 03 July, 2020, 08:13:08 PM
Well impressed I want one of those tilter things! where did you get it from?
Typical Lancia behaviour the Y10 not wanting to stay where you want it... 
Clarkey


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 03 July, 2020, 08:58:22 PM
Well impressed I want one of those tilter things! where did you get it from?
Typical Lancia behaviour the Y10 not wanting to stay where you want it... 
Clarkey

Bought mine from here years ago, it's been chopped about a few times as I originally bought it to use on an AlfaSud, it did 2 or 3 then altered it to suit my integrale, now the Y10!

http://www.mk2mania.com/


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 July, 2020, 10:24:00 PM
Managed to get a little time on the car this afternoon, came up with a solution that allows me multiple positions to secure the car at, all the angles I'll be needing to get the sills and floors done.

Once that was sorted the time came to start chopping out the original sill, always a feeling of trepidation with the point of no return looming but has to be done.
To get the old sill off the door step join I drill through just the outer skin taking care not to go through the inner piece so I've enough material left over that's not full of holes!
Then make a slit either side of the spot welds and the little tags can be easily twisted off, no distortion and no chiselling or hammering.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 July, 2020, 10:30:41 PM
Manged to get a decent fit along the door gap, temporarily with clamps for now as I will need to make the bottom edge first but I need to have the fit right on the step and door gap first, no point in creating a solid bottom lip to the floor if that means the sill is crooked or doesn't fit the door correctly.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 July, 2020, 10:32:50 PM
New sill also comes with the swage line for the rear quarter which is nice, means you can join higher up the quarter panel and not have to create a fiddly groove.
Really impressed with the quality of the sills especially for the money.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 July, 2020, 10:36:40 PM
As I say though, a bit of fresh air to fill in on the floor side but now I know where I need to build to it will make life simpler. Being able to do that work with the car upside down and not with me laid underneath will be almost a pleasure...
Back to work next week so that'll hold up progress. Been spoilt the last few weeks on furlough, but it allowed me to finish the alfasud and get a start on the Y10 ahead of schedule, didn't expect to be able to get started until the autumn.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: DavidLaver on 05 July, 2020, 04:14:18 PM

I like that "slot and twist" technique.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: lancianut666 on 06 July, 2020, 06:12:59 AM
Most informative...I see what you mean about the fit and quality of the new sills and why it makes sense to cut the old one right off.
Clarkey


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 06 July, 2020, 10:22:32 AM
Do you have pictures of the old sills showing the extent of rot? It would be interesting to see where the rot is and how far it goes. I have generally found the problems relate to the seam where they attach to the floor but haven't removed one to see what else might be going on behind the scenes. The perennial problem with Y10s is improper jacking that bends this seam, breaking the underseal and admitting water in the vulnerable area behind the nearside front wheel. It means the problem is as much in the perimeter of the floor as in the bottom of the sill.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 06 July, 2020, 07:26:41 PM
The technique for removing a row of spot welds is one I've used for some time having tried numerous different ways, breaking it down into individual little sections allows for the spot welds to be removed with absolutely minimal risk of damage to the remaining flange, unlike when using an air chisel or a hammer and chisel, the pieces twist off very easily and without distorting the flange.

The old sill was generally in good order, the rot was restricted pretty much to within a few inches of the lower seam as Frank suggests.
I did consider leaving most of the original on the car and cutting what I needed from the new sill but that means you have a joint to tidy up, using it all up to the door seal means your welding is on the flange that's then covered by the seal and you get a nice fresh door step.
The other issue was a hole in the top edge about where the front corner of the door sits.

With the new sills it pays to balance out how much of the panel you use and how much original car you leave on, nothing in the rules says you have to use the whole sill. I cut a good couple of inches off where it goes behind the front wing as it keeps the joint lower down away from the door hinge and it being completely rot free there was no point in going higher, a joint was needed wherever it may be so just make it where best suits.

I have kept the main section of removed sill so it can be given to the paint suppliers to get a colour match as there are a few shades of the blue available, even though I'll be spraying the whole car and probably the engine bay too I'll try and match the correct shade. I'll take a snap of the inner side of the panel next time if needed.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: fay66 on 08 July, 2020, 06:45:20 PM
James, have you tried a zip cutter for cutting out the spot welds?
Brian
8227  :o


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 12 July, 2020, 09:59:19 PM
I've been sorting through a few parts today getting an order ready. One thing I'd always planned on doing was replacing all the brake components especially the hydraulics as the pedal was awful so a full go through was in order.
One thing that can get overlooked is the rubber flexible hoses. They have a habit of collapsing internally which restricts the flow, in worst cases they cause the brakes to bind on. The hole where fluid is supposed to be able to travel through gets very restricted especially around any clips, check out the virtual pinhole that was on the front one when I cut it open, so restricted that the fluid inside the flexi wouldn't even flow out! That has the effect of holding the brakes on slightly. I'll be replacing everything on the hydraulic system..

Also I did a bit of cleaning parts using the electrolysis method. Even brings up the rusted cast iron caliper brackets like new. Did a few bits and pieces, cleaned and sprayed with red oxide for now. Once I get them all done I'll paint with 2K jet black paint, did consider getting bits powder coated but as there ended up being well over 20 pieces I thought a bit of elbow grease would keep the expenditure down, and gives something to do in the shed.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 12 July, 2020, 11:04:34 PM
A timely warning about brake flexi hoses. I replaced all mine just before lockdown and haven't had the chance to try them to see the improvement yet.

Could you give more detail on your electrolysis de rusting. Are you using a battery charger and washing soda?


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 13 July, 2020, 09:13:43 PM
The electrolysis process is pretty simple and doesn't require a big expensive outlay unlike setting up a grit blasting cabinet which needs a very good compressor with a high cfm flow to keep it fed.
All that's needed is a tub, some angle iron, bits of cable and a standard battery charger.
This is my small set up which has done numerous bits over the last few years. Especially handy on delicate parts that a blaster could easily damage. Also it's only the rust that comes off so unlike a grinder that also takes good metal you take off the bare minimum leaving only good metal.

The bucket has 4 pieces of old angle, dexion shelving brackets in this case, which are screwed to the sides vertically and fairly evenly spaced, number isn't overly important I don't think but this seems the average. You then link all the tops together in a circle.
Attach the battery charger positive lead to the circle of cables and suspend the piece to be cleaned with the negative terminal attached but out of the water. Best to use a wooden or plastic pole to rest it off as you don't want it to touch the angle irons and short circuit things!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: DavidLaver on 13 July, 2020, 09:18:04 PM

Child's play:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIAi1M9X8s8


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 13 July, 2020, 09:20:19 PM
I read that soda crystals are the best to use in the water which I tried first and worked OK, then when I wanted to use it again I tried it with Daz washing powder which I feel works just as well and is always to hand, Mrs frowns when I kee taking a scoop down to the shed though!
Bonus is it makes the shed smell of fresh laundry as the water warms up and froths up!

Today I took the bottom ball joints out of the hubs so I could get the rust off and paint them. I'll be fitting new joints back in so I don't have to go back to the job in years to come.

One I'd taken  wire brush to to see how good it comes up with a little scrubbing alone, very poor result and getting in the corners is near impossible.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 13 July, 2020, 09:27:30 PM
The one I'd left alone got a session in the tub tonight, takes a while for it all to come off but as you can simply plug it in and walk away then it's no effort. This piece took a couple of hours to get clean, once out you just scrub it with a wire brush under the tap and the rust falls off.
The one on the right is the one I'd not touched so was covered in scaly rust, now very clean steel.
You must dry the part off and paint straight away though, if left damp bare metal rust will form in hours..
Gets all the details to shine through..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 13 July, 2020, 09:33:41 PM
As David points out, there's loads of instructional videos on youtube and the like.
A very simple process that is very kind to any piece so especially handy on delicates.
One of the first pieces we did was on my lads Hillman Imp ashtray that had rusted badly inside the car. A delicate little piece that wouldn't have survived being blasted and too tight in corners to sand or chip away by hand. This process got it sparkling in about 15 minutes and as we painted it straight away it's been fine since, nothing I've done in this way has had rust return.
There's people that have created a mini swimming pool in their back gardens and put whole chassis in! Took about a week and a big charger but it worked!!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: DavidLaver on 13 July, 2020, 09:47:20 PM

DAZ is a good tip.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 13 July, 2020, 11:32:45 PM
Kevin seems to be doing OK with thick and creamy mayonnaise!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 14 July, 2020, 08:23:26 PM
Bonus is going in the shed tonight it smells of fresh laundry instead of paraffin  ;D

Day off work tomorrow so hope to do a bit more welding


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 15 July, 2020, 09:40:29 PM
The sill repairs were started at my last visit, taking back anything that remained rotten looking or even a little suspect is the key to a long term repair. At this point there is no sense in not having a good look at it as I really don't want to be doing it again in a few years so whilst it's apart make sure it's all looked over.
A section aside the rear suspension mount looked one such dubious area, not stand out rusted but from what I could see it needed to be investigated.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 15 July, 2020, 09:44:00 PM
As you can see it was worth the effort, even though it looked OK on the inside the side that was open to the elements was less so..
Once cleaned up it got treated and welded fresh metal in place.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 15 July, 2020, 09:55:19 PM
Once that was welded up I attached a new length of angled steel which will become the datum point for where the sill bottom lip will fit, everything will be built from that. Sections to join it to the floor were welded in.

Today one end of the cross reinforcer bar needed to be repaired so that was first task to make and weld it in. A small piece let into the floor too where another bit of rust was hiding.

Next was to make the repair pieces to weld the new bottom lip to the inner sill, spot welded where I could as it saves time and looks better plus I wanted to try and get the bottom edge tightly spot welded together with the 3 new layers.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 15 July, 2020, 09:59:16 PM
Time finally came for the outer sill to be welded on, again spot welded where I could.
The joint to the rear quarter was butt welded with the mig, same for in the doorway and around the front pillar. There was also a little tag reinforcer bracket that comes down from the rear quarter but was too far in for the spot welder arms to reach so just simply drilled holes and plug welded through.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 15 July, 2020, 10:03:44 PM
Underside will need a little tidying and seam sealing but I'll do all that later when it comes to cleaning all the old sealant off.
Spot welds anyone? My idea of a job well done, sorted once the weld is made and doesn't need grinding and cleaning up.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 15 July, 2020, 10:05:08 PM
Multi layers means multiple spots...


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 15 July, 2020, 10:13:40 PM
The question was asked a while back as to what condition the main sill section was in that I'd cut off instead of just repairing the bottom rotten section.
As can be seen it was still like new, so why cut it out?
We'll, it's now got new metal that I know is good all within the sill cavity and the weld joins are out of sight, aside from the rear quarter joint of course. Should all last for many years to come once painted, sealed and protected.

Next visit I'll make a repair for the bottom of the wing and the rear inner arch to cap in for the sill then onto the other side.
These sills are very good, nice fit and well made.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: lancianut666 on 16 July, 2020, 04:51:50 AM
great stuff Kevin!!!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: DavidLaver on 16 July, 2020, 07:55:30 AM

Bet you're pleased you didn't do it on the drive but waited to get it indoors on the spit.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 16 July, 2020, 08:02:36 PM
It is so much easier in the long run to do it this way, no scrabbling around on the gravel and being able to rotate the car so it's comfortable to weld when you'd be trying to keep sparks from your ears is very refreshing!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 17 July, 2020, 03:31:18 PM
At home today so in between tasks I'm keeping the parts tub going with cleaning up some smaller parts ready to be red oxide painted then once I get them all done I'll spray with 2 pack black paint to freshen things up.
Some before and after shots, simplicity is you don't have to do much work to get them rust free.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 17 July, 2020, 03:37:19 PM
Took the rear axle to the guy in the village who does blasting and powder coating. He's going to just blast the axle and spray it with red oxide for me mainly because the centre Bush I'm not replacing as it's in perfect order so couldn't be powder coated with that left in but also because I didn't want a layer on the hubs where the bearings go as it would need grinding back so easier just to spray it with 2 pack paint so I can mask the hubs up.
I've also taken a few bits and bobs including the front panel which will be blasted and powder coated.
Should have all the stuff done in good time so I'm not waiting for anything when it comes to be needed.
Back to the unit tomorrow so some more welding is in order.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 17 July, 2020, 04:59:30 PM
I have had a front panel powder coated but after a few years rust started to come again from the seams. I might mean the powder coater was no good but this is just a heads up make sure it's done properly.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 17 July, 2020, 06:05:49 PM
Anything with a seam can be an issue yes, I wondered about having it powder coated but I wanted it blasting to rid the rust.
Guy I've used in the village before and he does do a good job but it's if the rust can be reached in the seams. If not its just sealing it in.
I might have a look when I get it back, might be able to make a hole in any seams then fill the layers with rust prevantive material of some sort.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 17 July, 2020, 07:00:11 PM
I think it's particularly vulnerable because it's straight in the blast of salt spray etc hitting the front of the car.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 17 July, 2020, 08:26:47 PM
I'd say you're right on the money there Frank, like radiators that get bombarded by flies and salt spray it takes its' toll eventually.
Guess making it a 5 year refresh plan is an option  ;D


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 18 July, 2020, 08:45:15 PM
Managed to get a few hours on the car this afternoon once the motogp had finished, the wait for bike racing to start again has been torture.

First task was to make a new wing bottom. Once made and welded on a mounting point was fitted to the sill, I use a rivnut tool which is easy to make captive nuts in places like this, I've some nice M5 cap head screws that will do the job nicely.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 18 July, 2020, 08:47:45 PM
Lower inner wheel arch to the sill needed closing in then, a panel made up and then drilled with a 25mm hole cut in which I've new rubber grommets to suit, enables easy spraying into the sill cavity every couple of years in the future.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: DavidLaver on 18 July, 2020, 10:07:58 PM

Sorry - can't work out the mounting point and rivnut bit...


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 18 July, 2020, 10:17:57 PM
It's more on the underside of the sill, not that clear on there. It'll become clearer another time.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 19 July, 2020, 11:49:09 AM
It isn't in the pictures. The bottom of the front wings, between the wheel arch and the door, is held on with a screw. The screw goes in to the panel behind which is the front closing panel of the sill. A captive nut has to be provided in this closing panel for the wing to screw onto hence the use of a rivnut.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 24 July, 2020, 09:01:16 PM
For David, the view of the drivers sill with the rivnut mounting point  ;D
Now all fully welded and cleaned up with temporary red oxide aerosol paint to protect it whilst it awaits the proper etch primer then sealant for the welds before the stonechip protection and paint.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 24 July, 2020, 09:06:59 PM
With work being on a part time basis at the moment with the covid situation it is allowing me to get more done to the car, well this week at least I've managed to get another spell on the car.
The passenger side needed much the same process, floor to sill joint cutting away, floor needed repairing and the sill lip to inner sill repairing. A couple of days making that solid meant today I could finally attach the outer sill so now both sills are on, floors and inner sills repaired with just the end of the sill at the rear arch to cap in. That job was left for now so I could get plenty of paint spray into the sill cavity, with the car both right way up and upside down so it flows into both flanges.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 24 July, 2020, 09:09:39 PM
The floor on the passenger side was a familiar story with the other side as far as repairs needed were concerned, even dwn to the same rearmost outrigger needing cutting apart whilst the front one was still OK.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 24 July, 2020, 09:18:45 PM
The car will sit upside down now until I get back there, probably not until Wednesday next week when I'll finish off the rear of the sill / inner rear arch repairs then make the mount for the lower front wing fixing, so that will be the sills done.

The passenger front wing isn't as bad at the lower edge as the drivers one was, but it will need to have a repair made up for the arch lip almost to the apex.

Once that job is done then the rear inner arches will be cleaned up fully whilst the car is upside down. Despite my thinking it is still solid in the rear corners I'm now sure it won't be, amazing how much more you can see when it's shiny side down, but that brings its own tasks. Repairing it whilst on the stand though won't be sensible as it's far too close to the point where I have mounted the frame, cutting out metal next to that with the weight of the car hanging next to it would no doubt end in disaster so I'll have to make do once it's back on axle stands, at least I can do it without the axle being in the way so shouldn't be as bad as it could be....  ::)


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 30 July, 2020, 08:55:16 PM
Rear of the passenger sill got boxed in today, all standard stuff as per the other side. That's the sills all but done.
With the door back on the wing could be mounted and a new bottom section made for it then the mount let in the sill. All lined up nicely.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 30 July, 2020, 08:58:45 PM
You may notice some nasty scabs around the wheel arch, they looked worse than they were for a change! Fully expected to find some holes but even the underside wasn't bad at all.
I could have cleaned and treated it and hoped it'd be OK but for the sake of a bit more effort I cut the bad metal out and made a new arch edge. At least I know it'll be fine instead of hoping it will be.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 31 July, 2020, 09:40:53 AM
Back in the day people used to weld the bottom of Minis by rolling them on to their roof on an old mattress or some old tyres (you probably have access to the latter!). I wondered if you could do something similar by packing under the roof and detaching the rotisserie frame while you weld up the back corners? I recognise the possibility though that Minis' had a much heavier grade of roof so a Y10 might be too flimsy to take that treatment.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 31 July, 2020, 07:35:28 PM
It's not far for it to reach the ground so is a possibility, the risk of having some big dents to sort in the roof afterwards so sort out not so appealing  ;D
I wonder if there is somewhere that the body could be supported at the back though, worth investigating  8)


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 01 August, 2020, 10:34:24 AM
Trestles and beams through the door openings might work as the weight would then be taken by the sills.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 August, 2020, 08:40:48 PM
That could work Frank, especially as the weight would be hanging down so less likely to want to flip over.
I'll have a look at it on Tuesday when next working on it.


Been at work all day today but went up to the unit tonight to spray all the bits and pieces I've been cleaning, electrolysis rust removing and painting over the last few weeks. Painting them tonight and leaving to hang up will allow them to be nicely dried off by Tuesday where they can have a few more days hanging in the big unit, the 2pack paint dries nice and hard but without a heated booth it takes a little longer to be fully damage resistant.

Anyone for a game of guess the part?  ;D


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 01 August, 2020, 08:43:16 PM
In total there was 25 pieces, still a few bits at the powder coaters which will come back ready to fit but they're blasting the rear axle and red oxide spraying it for me so that will need painting. I didn't want powder coat on the bearing surface to have to clean off plus the centre mount bush is in great order so that could stay in.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 02 August, 2020, 12:46:39 AM
It would be cheating for me to play guess the part.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 02 August, 2020, 10:38:07 AM
It would be cheating for me to play guess the part.

 ;D Thought you know them all


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 05 August, 2020, 08:22:59 PM
All the underfloor stuff is now removed and I've started to clear away the old underseal and rubberised sealant, which is a really messy and time consuming job, two days into the process so far..
Thankfully the floor is in really good shape, a couple of areas where the sealant was starting to let go but a bit of treatment is all that's needed. Only area so far that I've uncovered to need welding is where the fuel filler tube sits there was a piece of protective rubber sleeve on the chassis seam which had trapped moisture, shouldn't be a bad job to weld up.
Hoping to get the rest of the floor cleared tomorrow then I'll weld that area and clean the rest. It will be etch primed then seam sealed before stoneguard renewed all over. I've decided to paint the underside in body colour rather than it be done black, or in underseal.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 12 August, 2020, 09:33:10 PM
Why is it work gets in the way so much!
But seriously, being on part time furlough has been really beneficial to keeping the pace reasonable, apart from being full time this week...
Did manage to get the afternoon on the car today so with the final pieces of the rubberised sealant finally removed and everything cleaned up it could be etch primed.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 12 August, 2020, 09:39:27 PM
Once that had dried off enough then seam sealer was applied to all the welds, this will take a little while for the solvents within it to evaporate before the stonechip can go on but with the heatwave it should be dry by Saturday when I'm next up there.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 18 August, 2020, 06:20:51 PM
Picked up the bits from the powder coaters today, they'd been done for a couple of weeks but never got aroundd to collecting them with everything else distracting me.
The front panel looks great in fresh black coating but the lower ledge has suffered a bit with rot. Still solid enough to use I think, I'll see what bits are important. Otherwise it'll need to be welded and redone.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 18 August, 2020, 06:22:07 PM
Hopefully nothing important... Looks like maybe the radiator mounts go here? Can't recall now..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 18 August, 2020, 06:28:06 PM
Rear axle has mostly come up well, I'd asked them to just blast it and red oxide spray it.
Only bit, predictably so by Frank, is a bit of rot on the little spring alignment turrets.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 18 August, 2020, 06:29:09 PM
Not much nicer from the underside


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 18 August, 2020, 06:30:13 PM
Other side not as bad but will end up needing the same repair..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 18 August, 2020, 06:34:24 PM
Plan will be to cut them off from the underside where they've been welded to the axle itself.
Then I'll probably salvage the top inch or so and make the rest out of new 2mm steel. Probably try and work in a couple of draining slots to try and let the moisture out.

I've also got the springs, rest of the front suspension arms, anti roll bar and rear bumper brackets back. Most bits are now ready for the refit, once I get the car ready!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 20 August, 2020, 07:42:11 PM
This afternoon I finally got chance to cut the spring cups off, the axle itself is still very solid and once painted it will be fine


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 20 August, 2020, 07:50:51 PM
I cut a circle of thick steel for the base with the plasma cutter, never have been very good at drawing circles! Then a band of 1.6mm steel formed into a circle to replace the inch or so cut out, top half was fine so it's just where the rubber spring seat had been holding the damp. I've purposely left the band short so there's an escape route for any moisture.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 20 August, 2020, 07:53:57 PM
Securely welded back to the axle, both sides the same process.
Gave it a clean and some red oxide before I left so on Saturday it will be dry enough to be sprayed with the 2k black paint as per the rest of the suspension.
I'll also aim to spray the underfloor of the car so a painting morning to come!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 21 August, 2020, 09:36:51 AM
I put a cut out in my horizontal flange to allow water to flow down the drain lip in the axle (I have a feeling this must have been in the original that I removed). I'd check there will be a clear path for drainage under the spring seat rubber or you may have created a new water trap.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 21 August, 2020, 06:54:24 PM
There's a notch in the base of the axle itself to let any water away rather than it collecting around the base, a slot in the repair too so I don't forsee any future troubles. I have made sure there's plenty of paint going in between the repair and the axle, it'll also get some rust preventative wax in there, not waxoyl as I'm not a fan of it as it seems to dry and crack.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 21 August, 2020, 06:56:14 PM
Change of my plans today meant a free afternoon so went up to the unit to spray the underside rather than tomorrow which has rain forecast, dry and warm meant I could paint without the heating on.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 21 August, 2020, 06:58:15 PM
Colour matched by the paint suppliers in a straight solid colour rather than a basecoat and lacquer is a decent match for the underside, the topside of the car and wheel arches will be done in the correct stuff but this was easier and quicker.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 21 August, 2020, 06:59:58 PM
Also hung the axle up and painted it so it can hang there until next Wednesday. Might then bring it home so I can build it up in the shed, but then again building it up on the car means it's easier to lift into place!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 04 September, 2020, 09:48:49 AM
It all looks to be coming along wonderfully Kevin.

What is your preferred brand of wax for rust treatment?


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: DavidLaver on 04 September, 2020, 11:31:29 AM

If that's "a short cut" and a "compromise".....   Lovely seeing this work.

"Colour matched by the paint suppliers in a straight solid colour rather than a basecoat and lacquer is a decent match for the underside, the topside of the car and wheel arches will be done in the correct stuff but this was easier and quicker."


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 September, 2020, 07:31:48 PM
Car is now down off the tilter so now the work can start on the rear arches where a bit of rust was evident around the bumper mount area. Also had a small hole in the outer quarter panel where someone had previously attempted to repair it.
A rusty scab behind the light fitting soon revealed more grot once the knotted wheel had a dig.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 September, 2020, 07:34:02 PM
It all looks to be coming along wonderfully Kevin.

What is your preferred brand of wax for rust treatment?

I use tetrosyl car plan stuff, seems to last well and provide good protection, easily applied with a schuttz gun which I keep aside just for that job, fogs up nicely inside cavities


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 September, 2020, 07:34:44 PM

If that's "a short cut" and a "compromise".....   Lovely seeing this work.

"Colour matched by the paint suppliers in a straight solid colour rather than a basecoat and lacquer is a decent match for the underside, the topside of the car and wheel arches will be done in the correct stuff but this was easier and quicker."


Thanks David  ;D


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 September, 2020, 07:37:39 PM
The rear outer quarter got cut out which revealed the expected grot.
The led light underneath the arch coupled with the dodgy phone camera makes the arch look very blue!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 September, 2020, 07:39:00 PM
Once the inner arch was cut back the bumper bracket was next as there was rust underneath it which needed assessing.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 September, 2020, 07:40:31 PM
Just had to keep cutting until I got back to clean steel, or a mixture of clean steel and fresh air!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 September, 2020, 07:43:05 PM
The bumper mount I've brought home with me as it is saveable but needs some rust cleaning off so the electrolysis tank will take care of that. Thinking I ought to invest in a small blast cabinet as although it's handy to do bits using electrolysis it would be easier still for small items like this to be able to blast them on site.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 04 September, 2020, 07:44:18 PM
I said the back corners were fun!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 04 September, 2020, 08:27:42 PM
I said the back corners were fun!

LOL,
Yes, I thought of you Frank when taking it all apart, didn't look too bad when we viewed it at my house did it!
You were on the money again though , bad area for rust on the Y10  8)


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 05 September, 2020, 05:51:07 PM
Started to make the repairs..
First little patch made the corner firm again on the reinforcing bracket.
After that a new lower inner arch to floor section went in.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 05 September, 2020, 05:52:25 PM
Bumper bracket that I'd cleaned up last night then went back on.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 05 September, 2020, 05:55:52 PM
Left that primer to run into the crevises and soak in so I'll make a new outer repair section next time and box in the inner wheel arch. Seam sealer will have gone off by then too.

I'll seam seal the inside once the welding is finished

With that drying I did a couple of tasks that keep getting put off, painting the last few bits of brackets and then separated the engine and gearbox to have a look at the clutch, needs a new one really while all apart.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 September, 2020, 09:52:53 PM
The outer repair panel took some making, loads of differing waypoints that needed to be in the correct place.
Got there in the end, using clico fasteners so I could keep alignment accuracy whilst fettling it to fit.



Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 September, 2020, 09:53:52 PM
Rear lamp was used as a guide for the fold alignment.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 September, 2020, 09:56:02 PM
With the outer in the right place I could make up the inner section, now I knew where it needed to be made to!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 September, 2020, 10:00:12 PM
Straight folded edge piece spot welded to curved outer repair panel, I'll be able to fix it all together next time as I've applied primer all over the inner pieces for as much protection as possible, some will of course get burnt off but you've got to try!


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 September, 2020, 10:46:45 PM
Got the front windscreen out today also, not without cracking it in numerous places though, anyone know where they're available from?
Might try and get it on the insurance though..
Some rust to repair..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 09 September, 2020, 10:48:20 PM
Knew about the grille having rust, seems like it will be an awkward repair, bound to be rusted down the fins..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 12 September, 2020, 09:19:30 PM
Passenger side rear quarter repairs done now, very happy with the outcome.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 12 September, 2020, 09:21:19 PM
Started on the drivers side now, rust is worse on the bumper mount reinforcing bracket but rest pretty much the same


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 12 September, 2020, 09:22:51 PM
Bracket had just the bottom half useable which handily is the main piece, top half I'll remake to suit.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 15 September, 2020, 09:01:48 PM
Work continues, drivers side rear quarter repairs on the menu today.
Not as much of a blind alley now I've done one side.
Corner piece welded in once I'd got down to the solid metal that is.
Then a repair piece for the inner lower panel to join to the reinforcer.



Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 15 September, 2020, 09:03:53 PM
The salvaged bottom half of the bumper bracket mount then needed fitting, and the missing upper section making as this side is also the towing bracket so needs to be strong..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 15 September, 2020, 09:07:26 PM
Not as per OE but strong enough and fit for purpose


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 15 September, 2020, 09:08:46 PM
Just had time to make up the outer skin..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 15 September, 2020, 09:10:22 PM
Fit is decent again using the rear light as a guide and measurements taken before cutting the old one off..
I'll make up the inner sections tomorrow before the outer can be welded into place..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 16 September, 2020, 07:17:09 PM
Today I repaired all the inner sections to box the rear inner arch in.
Then the outer skin went on.
Sounds simple but needed to keep making bits and trial fitting but I got there.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 16 September, 2020, 07:18:27 PM
Trial fitted the bumper and rear lights, happy to say it all lined up nicely.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 16 September, 2020, 07:20:34 PM
All ship shape at last with no rot left at all. Should be good for a number of years to come.
Next visit I'll start on the windscreen surround, most of which will be fairly straightforward apart from the section at the vents...


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 18 September, 2020, 08:12:08 PM
Drivers side windscreen corner rust repairs now started..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 21 September, 2020, 07:57:24 PM
Making my way around the windscreen surround now, not as bad as it could be. Just small pieces that need replacing, rest is cleaning up OK.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 21 September, 2020, 08:00:41 PM
All across the top cleaned up just fine using a knotted wheel for the rough stuff, then a carbide bit to dig into the pitted bits then a hand held grit blaster to clean the remainder up got it back to all good clean metal.
Passenger side had a couple of spots that looked a little thin after the same process so just simpler to cut it out and weld in new metal whilst at this stage.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 24 September, 2020, 06:29:37 PM
Worst bit around the vents now repaired, thankfully it hadn't spread down too far..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 24 September, 2020, 06:31:08 PM
All welded in and smoothed out.



Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 24 September, 2020, 06:32:25 PM
Corner finished off too so that's all the windscreen surround finished off.



Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: tzf60 on 25 September, 2020, 01:00:32 PM
Amazing work as ever, Kevin.
You make it look so easy....... :)
 
Tim


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: nyssa7 on 26 September, 2020, 08:29:24 AM
I was thinking of sneaking my car into Kevinís garage and hoping he didnít notice 😂


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 26 September, 2020, 01:19:51 PM
Cheers guys, very much appreciated  8)

With all the stuff in the unit I probably wouldn't notice another car  ;D


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: fay66 on 26 September, 2020, 10:27:17 PM
It's not sneaking it in that's the problem, it's to get Kevin to do the work without realising it isn't one of his ;D
Brian
8227  8)


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 26 September, 2020, 10:41:33 PM
It's not sneaking it in that's the problem, it's to get Kevin to do the work without realising it isn't one of his ;D
Brian
8227  8)
Yes, even I might notice that one  ;D


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 28 September, 2020, 09:09:08 PM
Here's an example through the next few posts of how a little "surface rust" is actually and usually the surface of a much bigger problem...
The drivers door had a scab along the bottom of the outer skin and some rust on the underside of the bottom plate..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 28 September, 2020, 09:12:31 PM
The holes in the bottom plate obviously mean that needs replacing but on looking inside the door the "surface rust" was on both surfaces!  ;D
So nothing for it but to chop out the outer skin to reveal the horrors inside..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 28 September, 2020, 09:14:30 PM
The further along I looked I couldn't see an end to the rust, nothing as bad but still rusted so couldn't be left, so nothing more to do that cut it all off..


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 28 September, 2020, 09:17:22 PM
Most of the bottom plate needed replacing apart from at both ends where strengthener plate sits, also there was rust up onto the edge up towards the door card aperture on one half so that needed replacing too.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 28 September, 2020, 09:19:59 PM
Then finally an outer skin could be fabricated for the bottom 2" or so. Door fitted back to the car along with the wing so I could make sure it went on square and to match the new sill. Use of the clico fasteners means it will go back in the same place for welding once back off the car.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 28 September, 2020, 09:25:35 PM
Bottom of the door skin repair panel got a folded flange as per the original skin which is bonded into place, a layer of seam sealer will tidy it up when the primer has dried.

All this effort for a bit of rust on the outside and a few holes underneath. Would have been quicker and simpler to have put some fibreglass filler in rather than spend a day and a half welding it but this way once all painted and treated it should last for years to come.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: frankxhv773t on 29 September, 2020, 10:53:33 AM
I presume you will reinstate the three drain holes before painting.


Title: Re: Y10 FIRE LX
Post by: Kevinlincs on 29 September, 2020, 07:34:42 PM
Well spotted Frank!
All in hand  ;D