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Finally found that receipt and swapped the plugs for the correct ones put them in and the little monkey started with out even having to charge the battery...the petrol is months old so the theory about the plugs might be true.
As the Y10 has been neglected a bit lately I treated it to a set of chrome locking wheel bolts.
Clarkey

I always use 75W-90 gear oil from reputable manufacturers for all my Fulvias. Prices vary but are about 16-17 euros/liter. The box takes 2.7 liters. Never had any problems over many years and long trips.

That does look a bit excessive but maybe not after a rebuild?? I am all for easy options and agree a drain, fresh oil and a recheck after 500 miles would be safe. On a related subject; reading one of Huib's posts on Viva Lancia, apparently using Millers synthetic CRX75W90 oil in the gearbox results in smoother and quicker changes, especially when cold. Not tried it yet but I will soon. Expensive at about £70 for 5 litres but I guess maybe worth it if it alleviates the 1st to 2nd problem I have when cold.

The last MOT emission test I had the limits were 4.5% CO and 1200ppm HC, these are related in that as CO goes up HC comes down so if you have CO below 4.5 you might be able to tweak the mixture a bit richer to help bring the HC down.

Sean

I have just had 2 Fulvia gearboxes  to rebuild as both presented xmas tree  magnetic plugs on doing an oil change (one  was my car and I knew it had a problem noise, the other a friends car that made no noise but has precious little syncromesh on1,2, or 3).My gearbox rear main shaft bearing cage had broken up but miraculously did no further damage. The other gearbox was a write off as 3rd was missing most of its teeth and1st and second where not much better. 4 synchro rings were less than min spec also.

I would say it is would be wise to pull the gearbox and split it....

Not B20 but B10. William Corke had used Wolverhampton for his B10 brakes and they used D3920 for his and so I used the same. Very good company to deal with. The thickness he used was 5.0mm and was just a little too thick but when asked they could do this with 4.7mm and this has worked perfectly without any tweaking. what the difference between 3921F and D3920 is I have no idea!

 Having just had my 1972 Fulvia MOT'd yesterday, I understand that the MOT is purely a checklist of visual inspections. Mine did not have an emissions test (none of my classic cars do,) as they would not meet the emissions requirements of much more efficient modern engines.
Dave Gee

If it fails the HC test doesn't that mean that it's running way too rich? Good tune up of the carbs should sort it unless of course they are really warn; jets spindles etc.

If it were me I would clean up the magnetic drain plug and fill with new oil. Then inspect again after 500 miles say. Hopefully ( if you are lucky)  the swarf is from the reason that you needed a gearbox rebuild in the first place.
But if there is still swarf on the drain plug it will ruin your bearings over time and further inspection will be required.
Good luck.
Chris

Never had any problems with 3921F material from Industrial Brakes, Wolverhampton Tony. I was about to respond when I saw your second post.
I usually ask for glue AND rivets by the way ( being from the school of Belts and braces!).
Chris