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We're setting off from Yorkshire tomorrow morning, sadly going in my Audi daily driver as not enough room in the Fulvia Sport.

Never been before so looking forward to it, interested to see how it compares to Goodwood, Classic Le Mans, Nurburgring Oldtimers etc

Andrew
S1 Fulvia Sport

Due to having a '71 lhd coupe, I'm parting with the below cars. Winter stored.  

'68 Dark blue / red leather - £26000
'72 White / black leather -    £26000

Full details + pics on receipt of Private Message.

In my opinion the late Fulvias (S2/3) may have more electrical problems than the early ones. Having said this, I should add that my Fulvias after over 50 y of regular service (and being unmolested) have not shown any electrical foibles with the exception of the lights unit on the steering column that is known to be dodgy. All my bulbs are still the factory fitted ones.

Hi Andrea, thanks for your response. The wiring hasn't been disturbed. I will try the switching of the bulbs but I think it's a little bit more in depth than this. Typical Italian electrics!

Yes, a few gallons left in the tank, and I'll soon be needing them 😀
The floors are all but finished now and given a coat of etch primer.
The outer sills will go on once back on its wheels soon, a bit more work on the inner rear arches then Dan plans to get it back on its axles.
I'll go lend a hand for the outer sills so it shouldn't be that long before it's back with me...

I suspect you are right in thinking there is an air leak somewhere (not via the servo unless it is rallye S). Is the support bar correctly fitted so that the carbs don't flex over the rubber spacer? I never use gasket sealant. The small spheres in the carbs galleries are in place (didn't they fall out)? The carb mating faces are hopefully fine: if not dismantling may have introduced a leak previously covered by dirt. Did you doublecheck the accelerator bar? The rubber spaced may not be identical.

Thought I would join this one in case someone has an obvious answer.

Took off carbs (Solex on an S1) to replace the rubber mount which appeared cracked from outside but was fine inside ( should have done it before purchasing new part) Cleaned carbs up a bit with carb cleaner but otherwise left undisturbed.  Put back with new gaskets and sealing compound on joint faces.  Now won't idle below 2000 and rising as gets warm.  Is an air leak the obvious answer as can't think where it might be.  Would cleaning of outsides cause problem due to turning carbs upside down?

Anyway any thoughts as due on tour in June.

I've posted in the parts wanted section but in case people don't regularly look there hope it is OK to ask here too. I need a set of interior door trim caps and the equivalents for under the rear side windows - has anyone got a spare set? Don't need to be particularly good, just adequate to fit.

Not a simple solution especially from a long distance. I assume the flasher is of the old type and not a modern electronic one. However, if the flasher flashes OK with the LH indicator, and the RH indicator lights up, it means current is reaching the latter. This suggests that the problem is downstream of the flasher. Has the wiring been disturbed? If the RH indicator does not flash, it is likely that there is something like inadequate current supply insufficient to activate the internal circuit of the unit: is the bulb identical to the LH one? Have you tried to swap bulbs between left and right sides? Have you tried to remove the RH indicator and tested if it flashes when connected to a temporary ground? Clarifying these questions might help to solve your problem.

Does anyone have a set of the interior door top trims they don't need, along with the equivalents from the rear side windows? I'm not too worried about condition as long as they are serviceable items.