Lancia Motor Club

Some may know I recently bought this coupe from the guy I bought my integrale from, it had languished in his garage since 1980 and although reported to have been started up at regular intervals it has siezed. From being stood or maybe taken off the road all those years back because of an issue? Who knows...time will tell.

I did offer this car for sale if anyone fancied a project as it's a low miles. low owner car but I guess nobody wants a tired coupe with a dead motor! Only fools like me seem to buy them...

So with that all said I have decided to make a start and at least get it running and see where that leads. If anyone at any point gets an urge to take it on then that's fine, but for now I'll press on and grow to like it that much that it will become a keeper!

I took the spark plugs out a few weeks ago and poured some parafin down the bores, it's a good cleaning agent and quite slippy so should have been able to free off any sticking pistons. That didn't help any as it still refused to move at all using a socket and 2 foot bar on the crank pulley.
A boroscope down each bore showed they all looked in better shape than I feared, no signs of rust and all nice and shiny.
Rather than force it anymore I've decided to remove the engine and put it on the engine stand so I can assess it better, take the sump off to inspect the crank etc. Could easily be the camshaft that's siezed, something in the valves, anything really so forcing it to move will only cause more damage.

Most parts removed ready for the engine to be lifted out on Saturday, I'll push it over my inspection pit to detach the prop shaft and the exhausts along with the starter and generator wiring.
Once out I'll make a frame to attach it to the engine stand to allow access to the sump, flywheel and heads. Probably end up being a full strip down, rarely ends up being less involved than expected.

Almost forgot to mark the propshaft myself. Useful for reassembly, with balance in mind.

  Richard

Yes, workshop manual mentions marking prop position Richard so will do that.
Doesn't mention how the  connection comes apart though, guess it will be obvious once I'm, underneath?

Three nuts/ bolts/splitpins. My engine was happier being lifted slightly 'rear end first' to avoid fouling near to the front mounting brackets.
  Glad you are getting started!

  Richard

Really looking forward to this thread. I was sorely tempted when you offered the car for sale Kevin, but have too many projects already.

Good luck. I seem to remember having fun and games with this job. Because the clutch is at the back the prop shaft is locked to the engine which means if the engine is seized you can't turn the prop to get at all the nuts on the coupling. As my car was a scrapper I ended up cutting an access hole in the top of the transmission tunnel.

I'm looking forward to following this thread! Just embarked on a Beta restoration myself!

Exiting news! It will be worth it when that fantastic 6 wakes up again!

Thanks for the encouragement guys, although I did fear I'd have to rotate to get at all the bolts, that could be fun!
I'll let you know how I get on...

Would 'saw wire' be of use?

  Richard

Well, it's out!
A bit more of a faff than I thought it may be, but once I remembered the comment about raising the rear (thanks Richard) it came out.
Pretty tight for clearance despite looking like plenty of space, the cooling fins on the front of the sump getting caught on the engine mounting bracket makes the job worse.
I first thought that raising the front out first so it could raise out like a submarine didn't work. Then I remembered about the raising the rear comment. Great work guys, those comments help!
Ran out of time to make a frame to mount it to the engine stand, I'll do that next time if I don't get the GTV parts back.

Looking forward to seeing what's gone on. Every water gallery is furred up so it is probably a few years since it ran. But whatever has happened, it's locked solid so far...

Go Kev! Go!
Clarkey
ps that engine looks mighty complicated...

Hi Kevin
I would love to help out in stripping and re-building that engine if you would like another pair of hands. I guess you are in Lincs??
Cheers
Simon

Yes, NE Lincs not far from Cadwell Park/Louth area.
I'll let you know should I need it.
Quite looking forward to having a look at it myself.
Some engineering looks really interesting in the valve gear.

worrying about the lock up. Have you tried backwards? I know this sounds stupid but i guess you tried the with the engine still in situ. It wasn't in gear with the wheels chocked?

Here's your next project Kevin, once the Flaminia is done of course! You're familiar with Y10's?!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275658902611?hash=item402e8d0c53:g:3awAAOSwNBJj2pnZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAkFznCRQSDkY2JWtXBf%2BiJ%2FM25uQffbOipbtVlapBj%2FMQ9X7vj3Z93s8sprbph0sL9zOoDPj3NjSdkiQAA24deLq%2FYkX2nk7f58A9cGeYsz8JG%2FlaOqRBEtRe%2FR6uJ2RlSVZiMBTNksRCoaUnG8q2qn%2BbSQAa0KDH%2BCT%2FN0U%2FePJXOJw6R1LcjHlPE30nP5W0qQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR76Ew5DDYQ

No connection the seller in Great Yarmouth.
Guy

Yes, seen it and asked about it.
Tempted, but I'm always tempted!

Got a frame made up out of some box section that bolts to my engine stand via the bracket I made that fits the stud pattern of the delta/dedra engine plus the Alfa TS engine, should be enough clearance to pull the flywheel off and everything else needed.

It'll be a week or two until I get chance to strip it down as other more pressing jobs take over, I know I'll need a thermostat housing though!

I have managed to get it to move slightly now using a prybar in the ring gear, so at least it seems to be that it's not fully locked up through damage or anything. Have resisted trying to turn it over further as I want to try and save as much as possible, things like the crank shells are crazy expensive expensive so I hope to save some parts.
My big concern is the state of the heads, or the faces more accurately. I hope they haven't corroded and pitted beyond saving. With the unknown condition of the internals and galleries it simply has to be stripped down if there's any hope of a long life for it.

Exciting work! What is the likely cause of what is now not a 100% seizure? Is it true rings can be freed off after years of inactivity?

  Richard

The cause of the siezure is most likely inactivity now, rather than any catastrophic failure, so that's good news.
Piston rings full of now carbonised old oil can stick very firmly in the bores, my pouring in through the spark plug holes of parafin was hoped to have worked down the piston sides to lubricate and clean them enough for me to turn it over via a socket on the front crank pulley, but it wouldn't budge. As is now does then maybe that's finally done the job.
The crankshaft could have started to form rust on the bearing surfaces due to the oil drying away, forcing rotation if that has happened would cause damage.
There are many other things that could have happenned, simple things like the camshaft seizing in its bearings, valves in their guides, the elaborate rocker gear looks ripe for seizure through lack of use to me. Even the camchain itself can seize, like a pushbike chain does if it's not used for years.
Any of these issues if forced back into service without being solved can cause a huge engine failure if I try to forcibly get the engine running, people have said to me why not tow the car off to get it running and such like! Imagine if the valve gear has seized the damage that would be caused if the chain jumped, or the pushrods got bent enough that the now moving pistons imact on still open valves.
Best is to take the long route and strip it down to see what's gone on, even if that means money being spent and potential issues such as the liners being disturbed , but if the engine is to have a future it needs to be checked.
If started up, assuming I could have rocked it enough to get it freed up then you still have the potential for gummed up piston rings to terminally score the liners before they got hot enough to free up off the piston grooves.
The state of the oil when I drain it will tell a lot, once the sump is off I can then take the big end caps off and inspect the shells. I hope they have survived as seem very expensive, unless anyone knows of a cheaper source than the E360 I found!
Another concern is if the clylinder head faces have corroded and pitted beyond what can be skimmed out. Again, if the galleries have corroded up and become blocked then even if I got the engine started it could, or would create hot spots and damage the engine further.

Plus I do actually love engines and stripping them down, seeing how they work and how they are designed. Having done quite a few more modern ones it will be nice to see the engineering from back then, which from the few parts I've taken off already it is going to be fascinating. The little speedo drive gear that I took out before the brackets for the engine frame blocked it in is like a jewel, over engineered some might say but the fact it is so smooth in operation now some 60 years after it was first made is testament to thw quality in the first place. Parts on modern engines seemed designed to fail now! I guess that comes down to cost, and why Lancia were doomed to failure putting engineering excelence over making it profitably.

A 50/50 mix of ATF and cellulose thinners is an excellent penetrating and releasing fluid. I haven't done trials against paraffin though.

Haven't tried that but guess it'd work well, would make it thin and runny enough to penetrate down.
I used parafin as that's what I use in one of the parts washing tank and it's a great cleaning agent and has an oily, waxy slippy feel to it.
Heard people use all sorts, diesel for example. Guess anything thin enough with a bit of detergent and oils in it would work.

Years ago Practical Classics did a comparative test on all the commercially available penetrating and releasing fluids and included this as it's an old mechanic's recipe. They found it out performed anything on the market.

Parts returning from the powder coaters for my Alfa GTV haven't materialsed so I'll have time tomorrow to start the engine strip down, hopefully I won't find any disasters!

Managed to mostly get the engine stripped this afternoon, apart from releasing the heads which are being very stubborn and won't shift.
Has anyone attempted to make some kind of bracket that uses the rocker shaft mount studs and presses down on the head studs to put lifting pressure on the head?

Anyway, the engine and its condition.
Once the timing cover and flywheel was off the sump could be dropped. I'd left the oil draining through a paint filter in the funnel to see if any metal chunks came out, thankfully nothing drastic but plenty of carbon chunks.
The bottom of the sump though had a good 10mm of sludge from the oil being so old.
The crank and rod ends though looked good with everything in place, a relief that it didn't have a banana shaped conrod!

Timing gear housing was reasonably clean, just old cakes oil sludge.
The nut holding the timing gear to the camshaft is an odd one, and the peg system that locates the gear to the cam itself also odd.
I used an old socket to fit the nut, cut down to leave 4 castle pegs to locate in the slots.

With the crank out I'd hoped that the pistons could be withdrawn into the crankcase so a large piece of wood cut be inserted up the liners to try and knock the head off its seal, with all valves closed a piece of soft wood wouldn't hurt the head face.
But not to be. The pistons won't come past the main bearing webs in the crank case.
At least I could move all the pistons up and down the bores, one has some rust on the surface of the liner so that could have been the reason for the stuck feeling I had.
Rest of them appear in great condition all things considered, so the pistons and liners should be good to reuse.

Big end and main bearing shells though are toast, hardly any silvering left on them. The crankshaft appears good though, no scoring although I've yet to measure it, but should be fine to go again.

The amount of powdery corrosion in the waterways is remarkable, the water pump needs a rebuild and the thermostat housing needs repairing or replacing.
As long as the heads come off and have no damage then it looks like a gasket set, both shell sets and some piston rings should sort it. New timing chain would make sense too.

One thing did go wrong though, self inflicted damage.
When I had the engine upside down taking the oil pump off it entered my head to take the drive out, just as I heard it fall out to the floor! Doh.
Unfortunately it broke one side of the drive off, but looking at the broken ends I reckon it was already cracked, the break was discoloured and not a bit clean so must have been cracked, so maybe a bullet dodged with a part ready to fail? Either way I now need a distributor to oil pump drive shaft.

Very interesting.  I must remember the modified socket method. That suspected cracked oil shaft may have revealed itself at a fortunate moment.
 Also handy to know the pistons can't be withdrawn from below. And overall a reminder to the 'tow to free off, plus a a good fast run' 'cure for all ills' view.
 A head withdrawal/ refitting tool will be a worthwhile tool to make. And one tool would fit both heads. 

  Richard

 

I'm sorry, but I have mislaid the memory stick with the rest of the pictures on of the engine build. I will keep my eyes open and have another look as we have recently had building work done which has caused chaos throughout the house.
A word of advice about the cylinder heads: when you get them off, check the bungs in the waterways. These have a tendency to corrode from the inside and cause the water to mix with the oil. Superformance do them for the Ferrari 308 which fit the Lancia and they're not expensive!

Thermostat housing: I have a similar problem with my son's Fulvia, for which I am making a replacement part. I can as easily make 2, as 1. You would then just have to weld it on. Let me know whether you want one.

Looking at where you've got to, and your likely needs, I reckon I may have most of the parts available that you will need. If you can either send me a list or you come over, we could sort them out.  Dave

Thanks for the comments guys.
Richard I agree the heads look symetrical so a tool made to lift the head should suit both, won't be a pretty tool but should do the job....I hope!
Dave thanks for the pointers, I'll be sure to check that out. I've also sent you an email about parts, sorry it's a long one!

The plan for the car is still fluid, if anyone comes along that wants to take the car on I'd be happy to talk whilst it's still at an affordable project car stage. The further along I go it will get more appealing as a running/driving car but as I spend the cars' price will go up. If I get to the point where it's a runner and still no takers I may even be at the point where I just bite the bullet and make it my own, do the body repairs and get it sprayed. But by then it would be NFS! I'd be liking it too much  ;D

Thinking back many years to when Martin Buckley was writing about his first Flaminia Berlina he had a similar problem with removing cylinder heads. I think it may have been the head studs corroding onto the aluminium head. His father solved it by heating the area round the stud then dripping cold oil on the actual stud. It was a long process. I'm sure its a regular problem that there are solutions to. 

I have had experience of Aurelia heads being firmly attached to corroded studs with varying experience and solutions.
Many many years ago I bought a  B20 c/w its original engine where the previous owner had run a disc cutter through the end of one head gasket leaving parts of studs to be removed from the block and heads as well as the block and head needing building up with aluminium. He had used a hammer and chisel on the other end of the head casing damage but at least that end moved!
On another occasion I bought an Aurelia where the previous owner ( a bona fide restorer!) had drilled out all the head studs down to the face of the block. The heads were ruined and needed replacing and all the studs ( which were now flush with the block face) needed drilling out and extracting. At least the block face was good. I had all the studs removed by a superb machine shop in NE Italy who fitted steel inserts.
My own big personal mistake was to buy an Aurelia engine some years ago which looked to be a straightforward rebuild. However what the owner didnt tell me was that the engine had been outside one winter exposed to the weather. I and expert friends of mine tried every trick in the book (including using hollow drill bits to go between  the outside of the studs and the head) to move the heads without success and in the end Omicron agreed to have a go. They hacksawed very carefully through the head gaskets so no damage to the head or block faces was caused but of course there were all the part-studs to be removed from the heads and block. A very expensive exercise for me as you might imagine . This took an age but the engine was saved and it happened to have a really good bottom end so I felt the expense was worth it.....but not financially by a long way.
I am therefore v interested to see how the heads on this Flaminia engine are lifted. Hopefully the engine hasnt been exposed to inclement weather for too long.
Chris 

Blimey, what a story! I do hope they won't give me that amount of grief  ::) I certainly don't intend of using a chisel between the faces!
I do have a plan, but if they are that tight it may be a struggle, I'll most likely give ita go this Saturday so will give an update when I have news.

I wonder if the studs can be sacrificed by using a stud extractor on them to release their grip on the head? Assuming they can then be removed from the block without snapping and causing more drama. Maybe the lesser of two evils if my plan doesn't work, I've seen new ones advertised for sale, but even then they should be easy enough to find new.

Should be fun, either way it has to come apart somehow.

You may be lucky with a good stud extractor but access to exposed studs is somewhat limited. Regarding new studs, i have had a couple of bad experiences with new studs from bona fide parts suppliers over the years and so these days i try to use good OE studs which exhibit no corrosion or 'necking'. I believe the quality of what Lancia  used back in the day to be superior to what is offered new today.
Chris

Just as an aside, this is a link to the first of five instalments of a Flaminia purchased in Europe and his adventures through Europe, a good read and indeed uplifting Kevin!

https://bringatrailer.com/2014/06/12/reader-mail-american-family-across-europe-in-a-lancia-flaminia/

P

To help with head removal, is it possible to pressurise the combustion chambers with the rocker gear disconnected and all valves closed. A variation on the method of cranking the engine with all valves closed which I thought might be a joke.

  Richard

Or reinstall the crank and big end bearings, remove the plugs and feed nylon rope into the cylinders and crank the engine over by hand? Probably not a starter on a V6 though? A straight 4 would have 2 pistons at the top at the same time so pressure at 2 points might be effective in that scenario but probably not on a V6...

I'll get me coat.

Interesting ideas guys, I could easily connect an airline to pressurise a cylinder through a plug hole, already have a home made tool that i used for leakage tests. Probably not enough to lift it but may make a few % help, which can't hurt. Air loss down the rings could be overcome to some extent if I pump some grease in first.
Simple enough to bolt the crank back in.

I'll try and avoid taking the studs out then, or damaging them. I do have a couple of decent extractors, a great Snap On one but that does require a fair amount of space around the stud. The other is about the size and shape of a spark plug socket, works well too but both types have teeth that dig into the stud. With no shank only threads to grip damage will be unavoidable to the threads.

That article on the Flaminia was interesting, in that the picture of the Flavia coupe reminded me how much I love the shape, and that I need to get on with mine.
I do want to get this Flaminia up and runnign first though.
Whether it ends up being a runner and tidied, run as is or even a buyer gets tempted by it who knows. But it can't sit around any longer, off the road since 1980, it deserves to run again whilst we still have petrol to buy!

There was a thread in Andy Taits Aurelia blog where he made a tool that would be very similar for the Flaminia engine...

Thanks for that Tim, it is actually very close to the idea I had, but probably better excuted!
Using the rocker studs to create a tool then bolts off that to push down on the head studs in a controlled, steady manor ought to provide enough leverage to gently lift the head......in theory in my head it will work, seeing it work on that Aurelia head gives me hope!

With great optimism I tried Andy's plate and also another heavier duty one on one Aurelia engine - sad to say neither had any effect! This was the engine where in the end Omicron hacksawed through the head gaskets as a last resort.

Well, I gave it my best shot and failed.
The heads are stuck fast, seemingly been on since 1963 and never taken off. There are a few studs each side that are corroded solid.
New plan is to flush out the waterways as best I can with a pressure washer and rebuild it back up.
I've checked the crankpins and shells and they aren't bad so will go again.
The bores have cleaned up OK by using thin oil spray and pulling the pistons up and down, the very small amount of corrosion soon went and the pistons were soon sucking and blowing away merrily.

Not ideal as I was set to do a full strip and rebuild but apart from taking an angle grinder to the heads and sourcing new ones I can't see what else to do.
At least I now know that it will all rotate.

The alternative isn't really an option, scrap the engine and car.
This way it still has a fighting chance.

Not given up yet...

 

  Kevin
   
   I have spare heads and engines should you need them


  Dave

Thanks Dave, appreciate your help, email sent.

Meanwhile I brought the sump and oil pump home to clean them in my larger parts washer in my shed which has parafin in which works great at oily stuff.
There was a thick layer of congealed old oil in the sump, scraping it up with a plastic scraper ended up with almost half a litre of sludge, which does tend to try to turn back to oil once disturbed!
The oil strainer was thick with it all, I've left it in the parts washer to soak it all once stripped down, the gauze was thick with it all which actually turned blue in colour when cleaning, the oil stains that is not the strainer!
One thing that may answer the poser of the broken oil pump drive though, the pump itself was pretty much seized with the old oil.
Maybe the few degrees I got the engine to turn was enough to crack it, the staining I noted under the broken off piece from it being sat in oil? Either way it needs another drive, hopefully Dave will be able to rescue me there.
Once it had been dunked in the parafin it turned slightly so after a soaking and a strip down it should be fine.

Wow! Nice to see progress ✌️

Progress of sorts Mitka! But yes, progress.
This afternoon I had some time off work so got the engine outside whilst on the stand and pressure washed the waterways out, there was a big build up of general filth and scum, powdery mostly which can clog waterways. As I'm not now taking the heads off (not for the want of trying) then I need to do what I can to try and do my best to get it running. The waterways actually cleaned out quite well, some flaky bits came through the water pump mount so it's flushed to some extent. I did take the spark plugs out after and have a look with my boroscope to see if any pistons were now supporting lakes, thankfully all still dry! Doesn't still mean the head gasket couldn't have failed between the waterway and oil galeries of course, but at least there isn't a huge hole to the bores. Again, no guarantees that once it's running and warmed that things will take a turn for the worst, but we'll overcome that if needs be.

A gasket set is on order and Dave is on the case for the other bits and pieces needed so coming along.
My GTV parts will be ready next week so that will take the following weekend or two so maybe by then the parts will be at hand to build it back up.

I've brought a few more parts home to clean, rocker covers for example. Should they be a crackle black finish? Mine were filthy and with a wash and blow off with the airline they flaked off revealing shiny aluminium. Were they ploished or as I suspect, in the crackle finish.

Rocker covers are a crackle black finish (the picture is very definitely not mine). My fingers are crossed that things will turn out OK building up the engine with the heads in situ.

Thanks Frank, thought they were from the pictures I've seen.


A few people have raised eyebrows at my plans.
I know the engine is a gamble building it up as is, but the alternative to doing it this way is just to cut the heads off as far as I can see.
Maybe once it's had a heat cycle or two it may release the grip of the studs.
Maybe if I'm lucky it will run, maybe not.
The alternative is to sell it as a parts vehicle.
I'm not in the market to spend thousands of pounds at the engine doing a full rebuild with the can of worms that it would become

I reiterate, if anyone wants to buy it from me now, or later then ask. It's not expensive! But the more time and money I spend the more expensive it gets.

I probably won't get at it for another few weeks so if someone comes along with a little over £2k they can have it, and do whatever they deem the correct for the car. Me, I'm just trying to do the best I can to save it.

Kevin, you've a pm

P

My spare pair of rocker covers have lettering in exposed alluminium. The casting is different to the pair on my car particularly noticeable in the area of the stud holes. There again the valve gear is different also.

  Richard

If it hadn't been seized Kevin you would probably have tried to coax it into life. It doesn't seem radically different to patch up what you can dismantle and give it a go with the heads untouched.

Hi all
When I dismantled my Appia engine I had great difficulty removing the head and after a lot of failed attempts I made a head puller plate by using a head gasket to mark out the positions of the head studs and drilling and tapping accordingly to the stud thread sizes. I had a few problems fastening the plate to the head but once this had been achieved the corrosion etc stood no chance against the force all the screw threads could exert on the tops of the studs in the block. I know people have used this method and it should be easier to make than one for the Appia engine as the head is much larger to cover all four cylinders.
Clarkey

Exactly my thoughts Frank, almost like I've nothing to lose in trying this for the sake of £100 or so of gaskets to refit what I've got apart.
With a slim chance it will be OK, I accpet it may not be OK, but at this stage I'm happy to try this rather than opening a big can of worms and damagimng either the heads or block, or both!
If it turns out to be a fail then I've lost little more than time and at least the engine isn't "seized" now which was off putting for most.
If anyone then wants to embark on a full, no expense spared rebuild then at least the basics would be there.

From C&SC 1990 (Martin Buckley).

  Richard

There has been a development with the car, all to be revealed. ;D

Sounds good. Did this involve an oxy/ acetylene torch and ice remedy? There are obviously spare engines/ parts in the VL spares section.

  Richard

Richard, if Kevin is feeling really masochistic that very engine may be available as it is now back in Martin Buckley's hands, the Berlina having finally been broken for spares, and the 20 year interregnum has probably welded the studs back in place.
 

I should clear up a previous non commital post. But didn't want to jump the gun, in case of any deviation until it happens, not that I've any doubts really, just it doesn't pay to assume all the time that things always will go to plan..

The aim when I got the Flaminia was to save the car and find a buyer. The thought that it may get scrapped was a terrible thing to comprehend. So I bought the car for an honest price to be fair to the family selling it and agreed that I'd do all I could to find a buyer that would cherish the car and return it to its' former glory rather than advertise it through the usual channels and risk it being broken for spares, the right buyer being the single most important thing rather than trying to make a quick profit, or at least try and recover my costs! If worst came to worst I said I'd repair the car myself...

When nobody else came along with the enthusiasm to take on a rusted 60 year old car that hadn't moved in over 40 years with a seized engine to boot then I realised there really must be a shortage of people with the required level of blinkered, rose tinted spectacles view on these old project cars, a lonely place in this club of madness it seemed!
So I took it upon myself to make the car either more appealing to a buyer by at least attempting to make the engine a going concern, and if that still failed to produce interest then I'd embark on doing the required welding and a brake overhaul to make it a running and driving car, surely that would entice someone along? Or by then I'd have fallen for the cars lovely details and promise of V6 cruising ability, interest peaked by conversation with Mitka and some video of his car saw to that.

Then along comes an enquiry and a viewing.
I have firm hopes that the car has found the right guy. All will become clear in the next few weeks. I don't want to jump the gun by naming names, although he can if he so wishes, but the car should move on to a new and exciting phase very soon.

Fingers crossed it will get a good home! You have definitely put some effort into it.

Came across this in VL......I can only assume can also be used on a Flaminia engine.



"AURELIA HEADS

I read Barrie Crowe's article on Aurelia heads with some interest. Having once stripped a second series engine, the following tip is useful:

I got rid of all the studs by locknut- ting them, and liberally spraying Rocol wire rope spray beforehand, leaving it for 24 hours. Result - studs came out easily in one hour flat. It was written up in the Newsheet at the time. Hopefully this tip will save a lot of bad language and skinned knuckles!

Ted Bates."


P

Sounds like it might be worth a go...Kevin will be passing the Flaminia onto me so we will see how I feel about a pulling plate similar to the one I made for my Appia. I might be wrong but I don't think the engine has been ran since the late 70's...so the heads will be fairly stuck, however we will be steady away on the Flaminia as the Appia still need a fair bit of work.
Clarkey

Got this off a FB feed, nicely presented, confirming what we all knew!

P

I'm sure that it will be useful to the new owner, which it should arrive at very soon.
I would have loved to have heard it running and even have a drive, but an enthusiastic new owner wants to do the car justice and make a proper job of it and that makes me happy that it has found the right guy.
I can then move onto my Flavia, once everything else is done!

An aircraft restorer friend always points out to me that WD40 is a water dispersant not a penetrating and releasing fluid. I've been using ATF-acetone mix for years.

I use Kano, which is expensive but so much better than WD-40, a can, can last a long time if you only use it for it’s proper purpose, also I like the smell.   

True Frank, but apparently WD40 has morphed into a sort of  chemical Swiss army knife and has lots of quite different uses!

P

The most left field use for WD40 I ever heard was freeing up egg-bound chickens!

Well, the car is near to its next journey. Nephew Dedra lent a hand in getting into position!  ;D
Tyres now pumped up ready for the collection Saturday morning for the trip up North.

The car is now in it's new home on Teesside. it is in a queue so will be a while before it will get any attention but will be nice and dry.
Clarkey