Recent Posts

on the subject of not keeping fuel in your classic this may be ok if it is sufficiently  modern to have a plastic tank, but it is asking for trouble if it is a steel  tank. Steel rusts (just peer into any steel tank) in contact with moisture laden air (typical conditions for storage from autumn to spring), this leading to rust  getting into the fuel system blocking jets etc and rotting out the top of fuel tanks. I have always put my cars away with a full tank (near as dammit) when I am not using it. Never had any running problems 6 months later.

Tim,
I've always used E5 in 'Fay' without any additive since we were first forced to use it.
I now use the latest E5 98/99 octane and I'll never use E10.
The pre E10 E5 was never a problem , but we're now told petrol goes 'off"  and won't keep, but does this also apply to E5 now? as I usually keep the tank full over winter as well.
Brian
8227

Does anyone here know where to obtain twist style /single use hose clips ?

  Richard

When changing down from 5th gear to 4th to overtake, my engine would splutter until I changed back up to 5th. I've just serviced the car. I see that the old plugs were Champion N9Y. on inspecting them they had all burnt pretty well. no indication of a rich mixture. I have fitted the specified N7Y plugs. Old and new plugs were set to 0.6mm gaps.
I took it for a drive and revved it to about 6000 rpm in all gears. I could not get it to splutter at all.
Just wondering - could the plugs make such a difference. I didn't fiddle with the carbs at all

It's an aspiration of mine to understand how gearboxes work.....Tim, next time you have one open, can I come and have a look?

Saw this whilst doing my weekly sweep for interesting rare parts and thought it might be of interest to some Delta owners:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126491651961

So long as you don't push the synchromesh (no crunching of gears). It should be OK but look at the attached photo where the engagement teeth are missing. The synchro was so worn (made of brass so no evidence on magnetic plug) that crunching the gears just knocked the little teeth off - it is these teeth that transfer the power - when they are all gone you have no gear and a lot of shrapnel destroying the box.

Let us know the results in 500 miles. Fingers crossed. Hoping to visit the Cape wine lands either this autumn or 2025

Water pump is making a noise. It’s also possible to wiggle the pulley by hand so some play there.
It was refurbished before I got the car and isn’t leaking. I assume the bearing has worn prematurely.

Any advice anyone?

Cheers
Mark.

Thanks for the advice guys. Tim, I know the sensible thing is to take the box out and inspect - the prospect fills me with dread to be honest. Ive only just begun to drive the car properly and enjoy it to the full. I think I'll drain the box oil in 500 miles and take a view then.
Thanks again all. Your advice is always much appreciated

Hydro carbons are unburnt fuel caused by an out of tune engine, not necessarily a rich mixture. It could be uneven compressions, badly seating valves, tight valve clearances, worn spark plugs, air leaks, incorrect ignition timing etc etc. As has been suggested, it may help to adjust the mixture to get the engine to run more evenly, but everything else needs to be correct first and then balance and tune the carburettors. Also make sure the engine is fully up to temperature before the emissions are checked, and not having sat around waiting for the test to be carried out. Most MOT testers, especially the younger ones, have no knowledge or understanding of carburetted engines.